May 25, 2007 - Morning, Noon and Night

We were told by two separate travelers that the best way to avoid getting sick in India is to have a shot of alcohol with each meal. They swore by this method and, although it sounds brutal, we gave it a try. (Why couldn't it have been Snickers instead of alcohol??) We picked up some vodka in the duty free shop and set about the plan with a shot in our orange juice at 7am. A bit tough to take, but worth it if it works.

We kept doing our shots, but alas, the plan did not work. Three days later, I came down with the poopers and Sarah shortly after me. Oh well, it was worth a try. At least now we can stop drinking vodka morning, noon and night.

Good medicine?

May 25, 2007 - Good Luck So Far

We were advised by other travelers to stay out of the big cities as much as possible. So we hoped that we would be able to get train tickets from Delhi to Varanasi the same day we flew in. We knew it would be a long-shot, but worth a try. Luck was in our favor today. We got seats in 2nd class AC sleeper. We made it over to the train station with ease and were even able to find baggage storage without much problem. We stored all our climbing gear and headed out for some lunch. We met some friendly people in the restaurant and made it back to the train station without problem.

On the train, a lovely family was next to us and they took us under their wing. They fed us all night long and talked to us about their culture and religion. They were really quite wonderful. When we got off the train, we lucked out with getting a nice taxi driver who helped us wind our way through the narrow alley ways to our hotel. He was so good in fact, that we booked him to drive us around tomorrow.

Looks like we're off to a good start here in India.

Delhi train station

Sleeping on the platform

Nice family

May 26, 2007 - Varanasi

Varanasi is located in the northeast part of India. It is famous for bordering the Ganges River and having over 80 ghats where Hindu people from all over the country come to cleanse themselves in the Ganges. Varanasi has been in existence for over 2000 years and claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world. It is definitely one of the most popular cities for Hindu worshipers as it is the city of Shiva, has the Vishwanath Temple and the most holy cremation ghat in the country. We went so we could get a feel for the Hindu religion and people and see some of the holy sights.

The Vishwanath Temple, or Golden Temple, draws Hindu pilgrims from far and wide to worship Shiva under it's 800kg gold dome and tower. Non-hindus are not allowed in the temple, but Sarah and I were able to go back through a side alley with a Hindu man who showed us the amazing structure and the beautiful golden dome.

We went to see a couple of other temples (Durgha Temple and Monkey Temple) and another one that I don't know the name of but apparently Hindus go there to pray to Shiva for fertility and they sometimes rent rooms onsite at the temple to have sex in the hope that they will conceive under the good graces of Shiva.

Our main goal for Varanasi was to go and observe the people and customs. So to do this, we spent some time sitting down at the ghat along the Ganges. Ghat means "river's edge" and is a place for the Hindus to enter into the river for cleansing and worship. Dasaswamedh Ghat is the busiest ghat and a good place to sit and watch the people. We went one evening and were lucky enough to be there for a Ganga Ceremony. People (and cows) sat on the stone stairs and listened to readings from the holy texts. We watched a side ceremony where they were ringing bells and lighting fires and chanting and doing all sorts of interesting things. Later in the evening, the indigent people of the city gathered for a free meal. It was really interesting to watch the people and observe their rituals.

Manikarnika Ghat is the main burning ghat and the holiest place a Hindu can be cremated. We watched as dead bodies were brought out in bamboo stretchers, covered in flowers. The body is dipped into the Ganges for a final cleanse and then the family purchases enough wood to burn the body. Someone from the family lights a torch from the eternal flame in the nearby temple and then lights the body on fire. At that point, the family leaves with the the knowledge that their loved-one has left their earthly body and gone to a better place. After the body is cremated, the owner of the ghat (who sits on a boat watching the entire day) searches the body for any gold or jewels. Afterwards, the ashes are scattered into the Ganges.

Dasaswamedh ghat

Hindu ceremony

Cows get the best seats

Hindu temple

May 26, 2007 - Um, ew

The Ganges River is hugely significant to the Hindu people. They call the river "Great Mother" and believe that taking a dip in the river will wash away their sins and being buried in the river will stop the cycle of having to be reborn on this earth. Hindus from all over India and the world make pilgramages to Varanasi to pay tribute to the Ganges.

All of that is good and well, however, what's not so good and well is the fact that all of Varanasi's sewers empty directly into the Ganges. In addition, they sink corpses (of people and animals who cannot be cremated) in the river. If you take a boat tour down the river, you will see many dead bodies floating around on the surface. Imagine what it's like underneath.

According to the guidebook, samples from the Ganges River show that the water has 1.5 million faecal coliform bacteria per 100mL of water. In water that is safe for bathing, this figure should be less than 500. The water is literally septic - no oxygen exists and waterborn diseases run rampant.

It is unbelievable to me that people willingly get in such filthy, disgusting water. I suppose the only possible reason someone would do it is in the name of religion and the possibility of eternal salvation. Don't get me started on that.

In the water

Ghats along the Ganges

Over 60,000 Hindu worshipers per day

May 26, 2007 - Suckered In

In India, every tuk tuk/taxi/rickshaw driver you meet will try to take you to a guesthouse or store they are affiliated with so they can get a kickback from the establishment. We've gotten wise to this routine from being in Southeast Asia so we're not usually easy targets for these guys. But Varanasi was an exception.

Our driver, Babu, took us on a city tour and the last stop of the day was to his friend's silk shop. I tried to plead illness (not untrue), but Sarah thought it would be rude not to go. So we went along with the intention of humoring them so we could continue to get rides from Babu around the city.

Babu's friend proceeded to roll out about 100 gorgeous handmade silk bedspreads (he even showed us the weavers at work). Overcome by the heat, or perhaps by the chai and biscuits they served us, we bought 2 bedspreads for way too much money. We didn't even really try to bargain with him. I don't know what kind of spell we were under. This is so unlike us. But whatever, I'm sure we've gotten a bargain somewhere else that will make up for this splurge. The bedspreads really are gorgeous.

Writing up the bill

Beautiful bedspreads

May 28, 2007 - Heed the warnings

Every single Indian person that we've come into contact with has warned us against their compatriots. Some whisper it, some say it loudly while pointing at suspicious touts. Always the same message - don't talk to anyone, don't trust anyone, they will rob you and cheat you. Be very careful, be aware.

I find it interesting that they give blanket warnings against their own people. While 95% of the time it has been true and we've come into contact with some horrible people, it still seems odd that they would assume the worst from other Indians.

An exception to the warnings

May 29, 2007 - Delirium on the Night Train

We took the night train from Varanasi to Agra and were absolutely thrilled when two Aussies we met at our hotel ended up in the shared bunk beside us. There is no curtain that separates these two sets of bunks and were quite worried that 2 creepy Indian guys would be next to us, staring at us all night long. But instead, we got these two charming travelers and spent the evening trading stories with them.

Around 1am I woke up feeling pretty strange. I had taken 3 anti-diarrhea pills during the day so that I wouldn't have to suffer through having the poopers on the train (which would be a truly miserable experience in more ways than I'll ever tell you). I think I did the wrong thing by plugging the poopers up inside me because I was feverish and heading straight for delirious at break-neck speed.

I crawled down from the top bunk and woke Sarah up because I knew I needed help. We ran for the toilet and the most miserable 30 minutes I can remember ensued. I felt so horrific. I was sweating buckets, my skin was cool and drenched, my mouth was dry, my lips were actually white and I had no color in my face. What's worse is that my mind was not functioning. I was really scared. I felt like I was going to die. I had no idea what it was or how to stop it.

Sarah was a hero as always. She knelt down with me on that filthy bathroom floor and hugged me while I wept with pain and confusion. She even cleaned the toilet off in case I needed to use it. Miraculously, within about 30 minutes, the pain had lessened and I had stopped sweating profusely. We walked back to the bunks and I was able to sleep for a good bit of the night.

Thank god I have such an amazing friend who's willing and able to take care of me so well. I just hope and pray that this doesn't ever happen again. I don't think I, or Sarah, could handle a repeat performance.

May 30, 2007 - Red Fort

I have no idea why we went to look at this fort when I was so sick. It must have been because we had tickets the next night to leave Agra and we wanted to see both the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal while we were here. We did end up changing our tickets when Sarah got sick too. But no matter, I lived to tell the tale.

The Red Fort was constructed by Emperor Akbar in the late 1500s. What's interesting about this building is that Shah Jahan (who had the Taj Mahal built) was imprisoned here by his son because his son thought he was spending too much money building palaces. The old man had to look out at the Taj Mahal every day for the rest of his life, unable to visit his wife's burial site. A bit cruel.

Red Fort from outside

Great light and color

Red sandstone walls

May 30, 2007 - Just Creepy

I don't want to stereotype an entire race of people, but in our experience so far, Indian men are just really creepy. There's the constant staring, which I have been fine with because I understand that we look different and they don't see non-Indian people all the time. I just tell myself that they think I'm some famous actress and can't help but gawk and stare and follow us down the road.

It's more than that. They stand too close and they harass you constantly to get you to buy something or utilize their services. They pretend that talking about a price for a service is impolite but then they harass you about not paying them enough. They seem to think that women are dumb and can't take in information so they cut you off when you express your wishes or thoughts and if you disagree with what they say, they simply repeat it over and over again until you can understand their complex thoughts. It's really enough to piss me off.

On the train, they walk by your compartment a hundred times and try to look in through the curtains. They have no shame. They will stand there and look at you and violate your privacy, despite your repeated requests for them to leave you alone. They make inappropriate comments about sex too. I've never had so many men talk to me about sex. It's really too much. These guys are creepy and I wish we didn't have to deal with them on such a constant basis. I could take a little bit from time to time, but really, this is ridiculous.

No offense to my Indian friends at home who I adore and who never creep me out ;-)

May 31, 2007 - Memory Keeper's Daughter

Amy brought this book to Thailand and passed it along after she was finished. It was entertaining to read such an intriguing story and it covered some interesting emotions and comments on personal relationships.

The story is about a man who delivers his own twins. When he sees that one baby is born with Down Syndrome, he gives her away and tell his wife that the baby died. The book goes on to follow the lives of the doctor and his wife and child as well as the little girl he gave away. It is an interesting study on cause and effect and the impossibility of controlling your life by eliminating unwanted things and making decisions for other people.

It also shows the intricate weaving of a family and the incongruous states of knowing each other like the back of your hand and not actually knowing each other at all. The things we keep hidden from each other can never be guessed at.

Another good one

June 1, 2007 - Back on the Raft

We never really recovered from our month-long trek through Nepal and have been showing signs of physical and emotional distress. Therefore, when we both turned up sick in Agra, we were more than happy to hole up and seek refuge inside our hotel room.

We splurged and got a suite with AC and a TV and were absolutely thrilled to see that we got another raft (like the one we had in Hanoi)! A raft is created when 2 single beds are pushed together to create one huge bed. So spent the next 4 days floating on our raft... sleeping, eating, watching TV and doing computer stuff. It was glorious and we got some much-needed rest and relaxation.

Even though I know we had to do this (being sick and all), I still felt guilty for not getting out to see the sights. I suppose that's the over-achiever in me.... or the pervasive guilt that lingers a lifetime after a Catholic upbringing. One of the two.

Back on the raft

Most visited room

A moment of silliness

June 2, 2007 - Taj Mahal... finally

We had tickets on a night train out of Agra for June 2nd so we had to push ourselves out of our hotel room and keep our fingers crossed for no emergency toilet needs, and get ourselves over to the Taj Mahal. That was our whole reason for coming to Agra so no way could we miss it.

We overpaid for the ticket because I misread the sign (dumbass), but we ended up with a good guide. He walked us through and taught us a lot about the Taj Mahal and didn't turn creepy until the very end when we paid him the agreed upon sum and he claimed we agreed upon twice as much. Must it always be this way??

The Taj Mahal is the most ornate Muslim temple in the world. Taj Mahal translates as "Crown Palace" and was built in 1643 under orders of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in honor of his third and favorite wife Mumtaz died in childbirth after giving birth to 14 children in 20 years. The palace itself is gorgeous, as expected. But the grounds are quite extensive and contain many gardens, mosques for worship and even rooms for visitors to stay in. Although it was hot as blazes, it was well worth the visit.

Taj Mahal

Through the entryway

Top towers

Sarah in silhouette

June 2, 2007 - A Man Can Touch a Man

I find the cultural differences with regard to acceptable touching absolutely fascinating.

In the last few countries we've visited (Cambodia, Vietnam, Nepal and India), it is common for men to walk down the street holding hands or with their arms around each other's shoulders. it is also common for women to walk down the street with their arms linked or holding hands. So these things are okay, but it is absolutely not okay for a man to touch a woman in public.

We westerns are almost completely opposite. We feel a compulsive need to touch our spouse/partner/lover as we walk down the street, whether it's holding hands or arms around each other or kissing or just pressed up against each other. But we wouldn't dream of holding hands with our friends. And I don't know any straight men who would walk down the street holding another guy's hand.

I'd say that it's just that they're afraid their masculinity would be questioned, but women are the same. We wouldn't walk down the street holding hands with a girl friend. I've linked arms with friends before, but that gets awkward after a while. I think we can just chalk it all up to cultural differences and the way we've grown up. What's right for one culture isn't necessarily right for another culture. But these cultural norms are extremely powerful and deeply ingrained in our minds. It would be difficult to flip-flop and start doing the opposite of what we're used to doing.

Different

June 3, 2007 - 3 Trains, 10 Hours

We finally forced ourselves out of our luxurious hotel room and onto yet another train. We left Agra in search of the more peaceful and hopefully cooler climate of Rishikesh. We caught a train from Agra to Delhi. We only had to wait an hour in the Delhi train station and then we boarded a sleeper train from Delhi to Haridwar. Unfortunately, this is only a 5-hour journey so we arrived at 4am. A bit painful and emotions were running high, but all turned out well.

We tried to get a taxi from Haridwar to Rishikesh but the only taxi guy that was there was really creepy. So we went back into the station to ask for alternatives and found that there is a train to Rishikesh and for only 6 rupees each. That's a steal as it comes to about 12 cents for a 1-hour journey. The train was a bit sketchy, but it worked out fine and we arrived with no problems whatsoever.

I am amazed at the good luck we've had on trains. We've met really nice people, we've had comfortable seats/beds, we've made every connection, we've gotten correct information everytime we've asked for help... this system is either extremely well run or we've been lucky - or maybe both.

Pretty empty

Creepy guy behind me

Room for bags

Sunrise from the train

June 4, 2007 - A Haven in Rishikesh

We have officially arrived in Rishikesh and feel that we have found a great place to hang out for a few weeks. We're staying in a place high up on a hill with a lovely view of the river and city below. Everything we need is right up here on the hill - restaurants, yoga, massage, books, internet, etc. It's great to have a little haven from the madness of the busy tourist areas.

Our days are pretty simple and we're reveling in all the free time we have. We get up in the morning and do yoga followed by ab/butt workouts. Then we come back and eat breakfast. Then we go up to our room, fill up the swamp cooler, aim it outside and sit on the balcony and "do stuff". We're fooling with pictures and websites on our computers, giving ourselves pedicures, reading books (I've gotten a great book on India called "Midnight's Children"), thinking thoughts and giggling about whatever it is we giggle about.

After the heat of the day has passed, we venture out for a massage or some internet time. When we start feeling better (hopefully soon), we'll start doing the evening yoga class. After that, we eat dinner then read for a while then fall asleep. It might sound boring, but it's absolutely wonderful to have so much free time after running ourselves ragged these past 5 months. It's just the break we needed.

Bhandari Swiss Cottage

Local hangout

Filling up the swamp cooler

Chilling out

Seats with a view

June 4, 2007 - Back to School

I have officially decided that I will go back to school to study acupuncture once I return to SF. When we left on this trip, I knew I wanted to make some changes and I had 3 ideas of careers that I might want to pursue. Acupuncture was one of those three and has turned out to be my choice. Many of you know that I am a firm believer, nay... an evangelist, for acupuncture and natural medicine. These therapy modalities have gotten me through many illnesses that western medicine only made worse. I think it'll be a good fit for me to pursue this as a profession and bring this type of healing to others.

One of Sarah's friends from SF is currently enrolled at ACTCM in SF and I've gotten some good advice from her. I've also done a lot of research and have found that ACTCM is considered one of the best acupuncture master's programs in the country. And to seal the deal, when we were in Kathmandu, I met a man who is an acupuncturist who graduated from ACTCM and confirmed that the school is excellent. How cool that all of these things conspired to happen around the same time!

As is my nature, I have already started communicating with the school and have filled in my application and written my personal statement. I just need to do a few more things and then get some feedback from my friends and then I can formally apply for the program. I'm really excited! :-)

If all goes as planned, I'll start in January as a part-time student and then go full-time as of October. It'll take 4 years to get through the program, but I wouldn't expect to be able to learn all about Traditional Chinese Medicine in less time than that.

I'm going to need a high-paying job from January through October so keep your ears out for me ;-) After October, Tiny Her is going to have to support me. I've asked Simon to start teaching her a trade like muffin making or paw painting. He thinks she makes a good scientist... we'll see.

Qi - lifeforce energy

June 5, 2007 - Yoga

We have found a decent yoga instructor right here at our hotel. He's got a nice personal style and has already taught us a few new moves. It feels so good to get stretched out again. Sarah and I would both like to become yoga instructors when we get back to SF so we're taking this pretty seriously and plan to learn as much as we can so we can apply it later.

We've bought a book (we're such bibliophiles!) on the major asanas and plan to study the poses, their purpose and their sanskrit names. That will help immensely when we go through the training. Plus, we don't really have that much else to do (thank god).

Stretching out

June 5, 2007 - Trip into Town

We finally felt well enough to leave the compound and venture into town. We walked down the hill and into the Laksma Jhula neighborhood. The atmosphere on this side of the bridge is so much more mellow than the other side. There are still many people out and about, but not one person hassled us to buy something and no one acted like we were freaks from another planet. One family did stop us to get a picture taken with us, but that's the price of being a celebrity. ;-)

We wandered about for a couple of hours and even found the courage to try some wares from one of the street vendors. I'm not sure what the little things are called, but they taste just like Mexican wedding cakes - yummy! Once we crossed the bridge, the pressure increased and it wasn't long before we had to turn back towards the loving embrace of the Bhandari Swiss Cottage. But before doing so, we did manage to find a week-long intensive yoga course that we'll likely end up doing. I'd say it was a successful trip indeed.

City by the Ganges

Sampling the street food

June 6, 2007 - Out of Sync

Sarah and I have been out of sync with each other for about a week now. It's such a strange feeling to feel so disconnected from someone that I spend every hour of every day with. We are still together all the time, but there is a wall between us. It's so strange to look across the table or over to the next bed or across the yoga room and feel like I don't really know this person I am with. It is one of the enigmas of a close personal relationship... as much as we spend time with and talk to someone, there's so much going on that we're not privy to and that person can close the door at any point.

We have talked about this (because I am incapable of not expressing my feelings) and have decided that all of this quiet time has given us space to think and we've drawn into ourselves. In addition, we're both thinking heavily about what we will do after this trip. I have decided on the acupuncture and need to get all kinds of forms filled out and submitted so my energies have been directed towards that activity. Sarah has been searching her soul to find out what kind of career will bring her joy and fulfillment and has been very internally focused and a bit frustrated as nothing is ringing out as a clear next step.

While I honor the necessity for us to go through this period and let it be what it is, I am looking forward to the time when we are in sync again. I know it will happen soon, but in the meantime, I miss my friend.

June 7, 2007 - Trip into Town, part 2

We were down to about 100 rupees each (enough to get a meal or a yoga class), so we needed to find an ATM. Turns out that the ATM is quite a ways away ("down the hill, cross the bridge then go to your right" were the explicit directions). So we covered our knees and shoulders and made our way into town for a little adventure. We started earlier than our previous trip into town and felt more relaxed as much of our journey took place during daylight hours.

We walked along and enjoyed seeing all the unique things that make India special - women in colorful saris, cows walking down the road mingled in with the people, horns blasting from all sides, leper colonies, yoga ashrams, Hindu temples, street vendors, monkeys swinging from electric poles and the ever-present Ganges River. We also ran into some friends and it was nice to feel that sense of community one gets when you run into someone you know out on the street.

The ATM was much further away than expected as we ended up crossing this bridge and then walking all the way down to the other bridge. So we crossed over that bridge when we got to it and checked out the Swarg Ashram area of town. Just as anyone does on "payday", we couldn't resist the urge to buy some stuff (books and face cream). After that, we caught the first tuk tuk that came our way and rode home in the comfort one can only experience from riding a lawn-mower-like vehicle down a bumpy road. All in all, another successful trip into town.

Crossing the bridge

Street vendor

Ganges ghat

One of many attractions

Sunset over the Ganges

June 7, 2007 - Holy Cow

I love it that cows come first in India. They live in the cities like everyone else and walk around doing what they please all day long. Mostly, what they do is eat all day long. I love this quote from the book I'm reading called "Midnight's Children" by Salman Rushdie:

"On Cornwallis Road it was a warm night. An insomniac cow, idly chewing a Red and White cigarette packet, strolled by a bundled street-sleeper, which meant he would wake in the morning, because a cow will ignore a sleeping man unless he's about to die. Then it nuzzles at him thoughtfully. Sacred cows eat anything."

That seems to be true enough as we've seen them eating any number of things you wouldn't think would be digestible. But these cows are considered sacred by the Hindus so they roam the streets at peace and at their leisure. It cracks me up everything I see a cow mixed in with a throng of people - all of them just walking down the street together.

Preggers

Snack time

Street gang

June 7, 2007 - Langur Monkeys

Monkeys have been almost as common as cows in the cities we have visited. The monkeys here in Rishikesh are Langur monkeys. They are really fun to watch because they seem so human-like in their body movements and facial expressions. There are many baby monkeys out and about right now and it's so sweet to watch a mama with her baby - so loving and affectionate. They seem to be thoughtful caregivers.

The monkeys do seem to be camera-shy. They weren't at all happy with me taking their picture. I think that was because the flash kept going off and the light scared them. There was one monkey however that just sat there, pleased as punch to get his photo taken. I think we just had an immediate bond because he reminded me so much of sweet Her with his enormous belly. I wonder if I reminded him of his mom? One can only guess.

Mama and baby

Little family

Tiny Her?

Very loving animals

June 8, 2007 - How the Hair Grows

Our friend Amy wrote me an email with an interesting comment:

"The passing of time is showing in the length of your hair.  It seems like such a trivial thing, hair, but it has become a measure of the passing of time for people that don't cut it. Reminds me of how I can tell a time period by the style of my hair."

I thought this was so nicely written and wanted to remember it. She's right, you can tell so much about the passing of time through people's hair. You look back through old pictures and laugh at the hairstyles you used to wear. You can see time passing as you leaf through a photo album and see the hairstyles changing.

It's true of this trip too. We haven't cut our hair at all, mostly because it's easier to not mess with it. But it has certainly gotten longer and I love that Amy felt our absence just by seeing that our hair had grown out.

By the way, I offered to cut Sarah's hair for her after seeing this email. She politely refused. I think it was because I told her the story of how I used to cut my mom's hair when I was in high school. We would pretend like I was a hairdresser in a salon (instead of my grandparent's dining room) and we would gossip about the stars and she'd tell stories about her successful daughter and her son who became a priest (LOL!). It was really fun. But I was a terrible hairdresser. I could never get the sides the same length and her bangs were never straight across. My poor mom!

June 9, 2007 - Campbell 101

Sarah's dear friend Shirl wrote her a wonderful email in response to our woes about going through difficult times and low points on our trip:

"I woke up this morning thinking about the  “heroes’ journey” as articulated by Joseph Campbell in his compelling book Hero with a Thousand Faces. (which I read 35 years ago.... practically when you were born.)  I realized that in many ways you are on such a journey, spiritually, emotionally, and physically.

What I remember of the journey is that it first starts as a call to adventure, when you know that things are going to change.  When a person answers the call, she crosses over into a place where she leaves the known limits of her world and ventures into an unknown, and maybe even dangerous realm, full of challenges and unpredictability.

I think Campbell even called it the Belly of the Whale, when the “hero”, while on her journey, is fully separated from her known world.  It may be perceived to be the lowest point in the journey, but it is actually when the person is transitioning from the old self to the potential new world/self. In most myths and stories, this stage is characterized as dark, scary and unknown. When you enter this stage you show your willingness to change.

The heroes’ journey often then becomes a series of trials, tasks or ordeals that are part of the transformation.  How you meet these trials is really important. There are some other parts here, but my memory is hazy..... except that this is about incorporating larger truths into the self, sometimes even confronting things which have great power over you...

The end of the journey is about integrating and retaining the wisdom gained on the quest, and translating that wisdom into the new life one lives upon return."

This message gave us insight and hope. Nepal really drained a lot out of us, physically and emotionally. We felt that we were at our lowest point and were worried to be going to the most difficult country (India) on our itinerary. We just felt that we had nothing left to give and that it would be a difficult trip if we weren't able to be open and curious.

But I think it's true. You go on a trip like this when you're ready for a big change in your life. We have no idea what's going to happen to us while we're away or how we're going to be different when we return. We're willing to see what happens and hope for good things to come as a result of this year of travel and exploration. We can tell that we've changed in some important ways, but as Karl says, to him we're still the same happy people we were when we left. I love it that our friends can still see our good sides, even over the phone or email.

We are likely in a growth period right now. India has indeed been difficult for us, but we're learning so much every day and it will contribute to making us different in the end. Thank you Shirl for sharing your words of wisdom and giving us hope to stay positive.

June 12, 2007 - Movement of Crowds

As we walk through the streets of India, we are constantly reminded that we are in a different place. Not only because of the brightly colored saris that surround us and the smell of cardamom that wafts from street vendor stalls, but because of the movement of the crowds. People move en masse and while their movements are not necessarily graceful, they remind me of a flock of birds. They move in unison - all stopping at once for no apparent reason, all starting again at once with no voice beckoning them. They move slowly and with purpose - not in a hurry to get where they're going and not in a hurry to leave where they've been.

At first, I was frustrated by this crowd movement. I wanted to pass them - how can they walk so slowly?? But they are impossible to pass. You can't get around them because they take up the entire street (no structured walking here). But once I gave in to the pace and realized that I was in no hurry to get anywhere, I really enjoyed being swept up in their current. And I learned that it's a lot easier to deal with the heat when you're barely moving, so that slow pace started to make sense to me pretty quickly. The only thing I never adapted to was the random stopping for no apparent reason. I think they do it just to confound the tourists.

June 12, 2007 - Swastika

The only swastika I have ever known is Hitler's symbol for the Nazi party. I, like everyone else, have learned to associate this symbol with horror and unimaginable cruelty. Therefore, I was surprised to see the swastika showing up in the temples of Southeast Asia and all over India.

It turns out that the swastika is considered auspicious and is painted on the doors of houses in India to ward off evil spirits. "Swasti" means benevolent, a good deed or good wishes. The swastika is in the form of a Greek cross with the ends of the arms bent at right angles. When the arms go in a clockwise direction, this is a symbol of good luck. When the arms go in a counter-clockwise direction, this is an evil omen.

Although Hitler used the clockwise direction for his symbol for Nazi Germany, it will always be associated with evil deeds in the hearts of westerners.

Good

Evil

June 12, 2007 - Evening Prayers in Rishikesh

We had heard that evening prayers (Hindu) were not to be missed in Rishikesh, so we headed out for a night on the town. We got ourselves over to Swarg Ashram and made it down to the prayer ghat along the Ganges. The ghat was quite pretty with several statues, including a very large statue of Shiva sitting in the Ganges. We took off our shoes and squeezed into a tiny space on the stairs.

Luckily, the guy sitting next to me spoke English and he was able to explain some of the things that were happening. I had lots of questions and sometimes the man just said "because" and did the little head waggle that I've grown to love here in India which means "I don't know". Then I thought about someone asking me questions about the Catholic traditions and I would have to say the same thing. (For example, I have no idea why the Catholics change positions (sitting, standing, kneeling) so frequently during mass. I figured it was to keep everyone awake, but that doesn't seem like a good explanation now that I think about it.)

The prayer service was nice in that it was a very intimate setting and the breeze blowing off the river was cool and refreshing. We learned a lot (as always) and even got our shoes back at the end of it all.

Afterwards, we walked through a garden that had scenes depicting the major Hindu stories. They were absolutely, hilariously fantastic. I wish we could have taken some photos to remember them, but they were behind tightly meshed cages and not easily photographed. I'll just say that the scenes were incredibly graphic and somehow, the blood and guts depicted on these cute little statues really made me giggle.

We then went to eat at the McDonald's of Rishikesh - a place called Chotiwala's. They had guys dressed up like clowns/buddhas to attract customers. We went in, fully accepting the likelihood of food poisoning, and ordered up some thali dinners. A thali dinner is when you get a bunch of small dishes of different curries and chutneys and breads for your meal - it's almost like a sampler platter. This one was quite tasty and I'm pleased to report that no ill-effects were felt afterwards.

Prayer ghat

Shiva statue

Crowd gathers

Chotiwala guy

Thali dinner

June 13, 2007 - Tired of Travelers

I've grown tired of travelers. But it's not their fault.

We move around so frequently that we don't get to spend more than a few minutes or hours with most of the people we come into contact with. The result is that we ask and answer the same questions over and over again... where are you from, how long are you traveling, where else have you been, what do you do back home... blah blah blah. These questions are just not fulfilling our need to make real connections with people.

We met a great couple in Rishikesh and were delighted to run into them on several occasions during our stay there. We really connected with them and had some fun conversations. We did more than just skim the surface. I think it was that they were very similar to us with regard to education level, socio-economic status, etc and we just understood one another at a deeper level. It freed us up to jump quickly past the usual questions and have more interesting discussions about politics and travel experiences and even to be witty. Wit doesn't always come through for non-native English speakers so you tend to tuck that away. It was great to pull it out again.

We realized later that people are just naturally drawn to "their kind". We find comfort in being around people who are like us and we find those relationships easy and natural. We've been a bit closed off to other travelers lately because we're so tired of having the same conversations with them. But we've resolved to open ourselves back up and try asking some new questions. Oh yes, we're going to buck the system and bite back the urge to ask where are you from. We'll see how it goes.

June 14, 2007 - Religions of India

Four of the world's religions - Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism - were founded here in India. In addition, India has the third largest number of Muslims in the world and thanks to the European invaders, Christianity also has roots here. Indians weave religion firmly into their lives. They take it very seriously and know their gods like they know their families. We thought it would be interesting to get a taste of some of these religions and the people practicing them. We have selected places in India that will give us a sampling of Hinduism, Buddhism, Sikhism and Muslim(ism?).

I've learned a lot about these religions and want to write down some general overviews - mostly for my own benefit, but maybe it's interesting to others as well. I'd really like to study religion more in-depth at some point. Not because I want to practice religion, but because so much of the world's history is based on religion - the practice of it, the suppression of it, and the fighting over which one is "right". Learning about religion is like learning about the world.

Hinduism - Over 85%of the Indian population is Hindu. Hindus believe in many gods, including Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The Hindu religion has no single book or god or prophet and communities tend to choose their own to focus on. Therefore, Hindu beliefs and practices from one community to the next can vary greatly. This religion seems to have a lot of superstition involved with it and followers pray to their pantheon of gods for everything they desire.

Buddhism - This religion sprung from Hinduism and shares many of the same gods and goddesses and rituals. It came about when a prince (Siddhartha Guatama) rejected his privileged life and sought value and meaning through a life of hardship and suffering. Through much meditation and by suppressing the ego, Siddhartha reached enlightenment and became Guatama Buddha. The Buddha is revered and emulated today and buddhist followers practice the art of compassion for all sentient beings.

Sikhism - This religion grew out of Hinduism and Muslimism but varies in that Sikhs believe in equality of all people and therefore reject the caste system that the Hindus brought to India. Guru Nanuk, the founder of the Sikh religion, also believed that people should not worship idols and the best way to achieve enlightenment is to simply meditate on God's name. After the assassination of one of the Sikh gurus, the Sikh people vowed to become warriors and fight for the right to practice their religion. You can easily identify a Sikh by the 5 "signs" they wear: uncut hair, a comb, a pair of shorts, an iron bracelet and a sword.

Islam - This religion is quite different than the other religions described here. This religion began around the 7th century with the teachings of Muhammad. Muslims are the followers of Islam and they believe in the total surrender of themselves to God. They also believe that God revealed the Quran to Muhammad and that this book is the complete source of everything they need to know. There are two major denominations of muslims - sunnis and shias. Although there is very little that separates these two groups, they have fought fiercely against one another.

Hindu

Buddhist

Sikh

Islam

June 14, 2007 - Sikh Golden Temple

Amritsar is the heart of the Sikh religion and within the walls of the Old City, sits the magnificent Golden Temple. Originally built in the late 1500s, the temple was destroyed by the Muslims in the mid 1700s. It was rebuilt shortly thereafter and at the beginning of the 1800s, a local maharaja provided gilded copper plates and 750kg of pure gold for the roof. Since then, it has been known as the Golden Temple.

Sarah and I visited in the morning and stayed for several hours - listening to the chanting, watching the people give offerings and cleanse themselves in the Amrit Sarovar (sacred pool) that gave Amritsar its name, walking through the temple (which is open on all four sides symbolizing the ability for any person of any class to enter the temple from any direction), watching monks read from the holy book, eating lunch in the communal cafeteria (free meals are served 24 hours a day) and getting stared at.

It was a lovely place to be and all of the people were really friendly. Although we got more staring than usual, they immediately broke into huge smiles if we smiled at them. And they welcomed us to their table and shared their rituals with us. It was a really nice day for us. Despite those scary beards and the daggers they carry, Sikh people are really friendly.

Golden Temple

Sikh museum

Covered heads

Free lunch

June 14, 2007 - Border of Pakistan

We hired a car to drive us to the border of Pakistan for a little "border bravado". It was only an hour away and the spectacle was quite amusing. We arrived early but weren't allowed in the stands so we waited outside. We found some other travelers and we all got stared out and video-taped and photographed as a group.

When they finally let us in, we almost got trampled to death (literally). But we eventually got into the bleachers and the proceedings unfolded. The Indian and Pakistan armies performed for their fans by goosestepping up and down the promenade, swinging their arms with such fervor that it truly seemed that their arms might fly off. Our side of the fence yelled allegiance to India and the other side to Pakistan. At sunset, the started lowering both flags, slowly and simultaneously and so ends another day at the border of India and Pakistan.

Just a little India/Pakistan history for you... when India gained it's independence from the British in 1947, the powers that be partitioned India so that it split into India and Pakistan. Pakistan was meant to be a place for Muslims to live and so a great transition occurred in which Hindus migrated away from the Pakistan area and Muslims migrated into it. Many people died on this journey either from the hardship of it or from starvation. There is a long history of dissension between these two countries that seems ridiculous since they are all from the same place and only religious belief separates them. But that's the way of the world.

Flags at the border

National pride

Border "security"

June 14, 2007 - No Crowd Control Here

As mentioned, we had to wait outside for the gates to open up and let us into the bleacher area for the lowering of the flags ceremony at the border. We congregated near the stairs but soon enough people were pushing in and getting in front of us. We weren't really worried about it because it was too hot (49 celsius) to be able to stand close to anyone. But when the guards whistled for people to go into the bleachers, holy hell broke loose. People were pushing so hard that I felt like I couldn't breathe. It was absolutely ridiculous. And I hate to say this, but it just wasn't civilized. People were acting like animals and some crazy mob mentality took over. I was disdainful of these people and their pushing, shoving and cutting in line. It's so not important to be first in line and here they were ready to crush people to death just to get into these bleachers.

That's the thing about India. They don't have the same kind of structure that we're used to. They have their own system and it works for them, but it really doesn't work for me. I long for the rules that govern western society and allow us to wait in line without being pushed and allow us to get into a place in an orderly manner so that the people who got there first get to go in first. I realize that I'm missing out on something other people love about India, but I don't care. I like order and I miss it.

Uncivilized

June 15, 2007 - Not the Progress I Expected

India has been around for a long time and has recently been receiving accolades for the progress it is making. I look around and I wonder, what progress?

First of all, I have never seen so many destitute people. Most of the people that we see are living on the streets or at the train station or on the train tracks or in cardboard boxes. They have nothing. They are usually clothed but almost never have shoes. They are really suffering.

Second, there is a complete lack of infrastructure here. Electricity is touch-and-go and cannot be relied upon in any of the towns we've been in. The roads are not well- maintained and there are no apparent traffic rules (only unwritten ones that involve incessant use of the horn). There seems to be no water purification system so people are drinking sewer water. Despite the fact that this country has monsoon season, there seems to be no water run-off system so the streets get flooded after just a few minutes of a light downpour.

Lastly, education seems to be only for the rich. I'm not sure if the public schools went away with the British or if the poor just can't afford to have their kids in school instead of on the street begging. The literacy rate is supposedly around 60% but I really doubt that is true.

If this is progress, I would hate to see what it was before. It's that constant battle of the haves and have nots. Until India can find a way to take care of all these destitute people, educate them and help them find jobs, then I don't see how this country can turn itself around. I'm sure that is an incredibly simplistic view and that I'm missing a lot. This is just what I see as I travel around.

June 15, 2007 - Human TVs

As we sat in the bus station and tried to figure out which bus to catch, we realized that people were congregating around us and watching us as if we were a TV show. It was so strange. They would sit down around us and just stare at us. We weren't even doing anything - just sitting there. But that didn't matter. They were rapt with attention and couldn't pry their eyes away from us. I will never understand why we are so fascinating to these people. They must see westerners all the time and we really aren't that different from them. I'm not sure what the fascination is and what would lead them to stare, to take our pictures and to videotape us. I've asked a few people why, but they don't seem to understand the question.

Watching TV

June 15, 2007 - First Bus in India

We've been lucky enough to be able to take trains to all of our destinations here in India. But the government doesn't maintain the tracks up to Dharmasala because it's a Tibetan refugee area and they don't want to invest anything in it. Therefore, we had to take the bus.

Figuring out how to get on the right bus was quite difficult, but it turned out that they found us. I guess a lot of westerners travel to Dharamsala so when the bus arrived, the driver went around to any white people in the station and asked us if we were going to Dharamsala. It worked.

We got on and found seats. We spread out a bit because there weren't very many people on the bus. But when the bus started moving, a horde of people flung themselves onto the bus. I have no idea why they waited til we were moving, but that's what happened. I tried to move back into a seat beside Sarah so others could have my seat, but just wasn't fast enough. This woman got blocked my way, took my arm and pushed me out of my seat. I was so pissed off. I have no idea why they push like this, but it's so annoying.

We finally got settled and the bus ride proceeded without much excitement. It was far to difficult to read on the bus so I pulled out the iPod and we started listening to Ender's Game - one of my all-time favorite books. It was such a relief to have a distraction and I so love Ender Wiggen.

About four hours into the ride, our bus broke down. The driver pulled over and people came onto the bus and started pounding on something under the floor boards. We waited for a while, but no announcement was made in either Hindi or English. We got off the bus to escape the heat and then it pulled away with most of us off the bus. We ran after it and I got on but Sarah didn't. Then we just stopped and some guy came on with a blow torch. After that, they blew a whistle, started the engine and took off.

We arrived in Dharamsala not a moment too soon. Sarah and I were not feeling well throughout the bus journey but something terrible had definitely settled in our chests. We were getting ready for another battle with Mother India.

Bus station

Packed with people

June 16, 2007 - Spiraling into Delirium... Again

We arrived in McLeodganj just in time to be sick for days and days. I had a raging fever for 2 days and we were both consumed by a virus that took hold in our chests and just wouldn't let go. Thankfully we are here in a place that is cool and comfortable. We went from 120 heat in Amritsar to 75 degree cool in McLeod. Such an amazing difference.

We started listening to Ender's Game on audiobook while we were on the bus. We finished it while we were lying in bed hot with fever. This is one of my favorite books and I've listened to the audiobook several times. Sarah had never read it before but she fell in love with it just as I did. You can't help but love Ender Wiggen and the story is so fun.

Ender's Game is the quintessential story of good versus evil. But Orson Scott Card, the author, mixes it up by blurring the lines between who is good and who has evil in them. He muddies the water by giving the characters more depth and therefore making them more human. All humans have a little good and a little evil in them. It's interesting to see the characters struggle with this throughout the book.

The book also brings in some interesting ideas about population control, religion, world hegemony, combative nature of the human race and the burdens we place on children. I highly recommend this book to anyone, but I will warn you that it's officially a science fiction book and if you hate that sort of thing, this isn't for you.

Ender

June 16, 2007 - Dengue Fever

India is trying to kill us. I wrote to some healthcare professionals back home to get an opinion on the illness we were experiencing. They wrote back that it seemed likely that we had caught Dengue Fever. This virus is transmitted through mosquito and is rampant all over India. There is no vaccination for it and no pill you can take to ward it off. It starts with a bad fever and terrible muscle aches. It moves on to cause respiratory problems and an altered mental state.

We're not sure if this is what was had, but we certainly had those symptoms, plus many others. It seems most likely that we had Dengue Fever along with "Delhi Belly" and a bad head cold. I can tell you that it was a horrible experience that lasted an entire week. I nearly lost my will to live. When the mental problems (fuzzy mind, inability to focus, inability to think coherent thoughts, racing mind) settled in, I wanted to give up. It's one thing to feel physically ill, but it's quite another to feel like you're losing your mind.

I don't know why I keep having so many health problems. Africa tried to kill me with intestinal parasites, India tried to kill me with Dengue Fever and the good ol' US tried to kill me with cancer (twice). (Leave it to the US to pull out the big guns.) I think I got the wrong body. My mind wants to go on all these adventures and do all these crazy activities, but my body doesn't seem incapable of handling the stress of it all. I suppose I should feel lucky that I'm still going strong and none of these things has stopped me from living a full life. I just wish it would stop now.

June 18, 2007 - A New Plan

Sarah and I have been a bit depressed lately. Mostly because we're sick but also because there is a separation between us. It's hard to be in a country like India and not feel well and not feel like you've got a friend. We talked today and it felt good to express some feelings and explore some options. We both agreed that we had lost interest in the Europe part of our trip. This is really surprising because that's the part we've been most excited about this whole time. I think that they sands of time have just worn us down and taken away a lot of our excitement. Plus, the thought of having to figure out 4 new countries is not appealing. We're just too tired.

So we've decided that we're going to rent a house in the south of Spain for 3 months and just live there. We'll place ourselves near some climbing crags and we'll get out to the rock whenever we feel like it. We'll take Spanish classes, we'll go to the market and get fresh veggies and make our own food, we'll walk to the local cafe and drink coffee and eat churros... we'll just live the life. Whatever that turns out to be. Plus we'll be really close to Morocco so we can take a side trip anytime we please. We're excited about the new plan and that feels good.

Spain

June 19, 2007 - Midnight's Children

I had never read anything by Salman Rushdie before but I was drawn to this book in the bookstore and I really wanted to read something about India. I was pleasantly surprised with the depth of this book and the insights it provided.

The book is written as an allegory about the time of India independence from the British in 1947 and the birth of a boy named Saleem Sinai at the exact same time as the birth of the new nation. The book links the two together and tells of things happening to Saleem in order to tell what was happening to India.

Not only does the book talk about historic events and political maneuverings, but it also talks about the smaller changes that were happening at an individual level. How the British left their mark, the role of religion for the Indian people, the magical things that seem to happen in India, marriages, changing identity when your name is changed, children's responsibility to the family, etc.

Not knowing much about India and Pakistan, this book taught me a lot. But it's also a masterpiece of a story. It is unbelievable how Rushdie has tied it all together. Definitely worth a read.

Good one

June 21, 2007 - Reiki

In the hopes of getting relief from the persistent sickness and mental difficulties I'd been experiencing, I went in search of a reiki treatment. The reiki master focuses on 7 chakras within your body and works to get them all in alignment. When all the chakras are spinning in the same direction and at the same speeds, then your body and mind are balanced.

I had never done reiki before this, but have been interested in it for quite a while. Sarah went with me just in case I felt bad after it was over (what a good friend!). I laid down on the floor and the reiki master proceeded to put his hands on or above each of my chakra areas. It wasn't invasive or strange in any way. In some places (stomach and neck) I had a lot of twitching of my muscles and nerves. It felt like something was working itself out.

When we were done, I asked the reiki master what he found in my body. He said "there's nothing wrong with you". I laughed out loud. I thought it was so funny because rarely have I felt worse. While I don't think this practitioner was very good at sensing someone's aura, I'm still interested in this method of healing and want to learn more about it when I get back to SF. In the meantime, I can take comfort in knowing there's nothing wrong with me. ;-)

Chakra

June 21, 2007 - Night at the Movies

As we walked along the streets of McLeod, we came across a little cinema. Amongst the fruits and vegetables, there was a little gate leading downstairs to the "theatre". We were quite excited and desperate for a distraction, so we joined Shrek 3 about 30 minutes late. We descended this tiny spiral staircase and found some seats. Sarah started cracking up when she felt like she was sitting on something and pulled out a knife that had been laying on the seat!

It wasn't a very good movie, but it was nice to have something new going through our heads. We went back a couple days later to see Spiderman 3. We got in there early and were able to check out the place. It actually had nice stadium seating (even better than Karl's house!) and the screen was decent (not nearly as nice as the one at Karl's house). This movie was equally atrocious, but again, it was fun to go to the movies again.

Movie listing

Sarah descends

Creepy stairs

Big screen

June 22, 2007 - Free Tibet

Dharamsala is the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile. The Dalai Lama and many other Tibetans have fled their homeland on foot and mule over dangerous mountain passes in order to seek refuge in another country. This is because the Chinese invaded Tibet in 1949 under the guise of "liberating the downtrodden masses of Tibet". They took over the country with relative ease as the Tibetan soldiers were no match for size and strength of the Chinese army.

The Chinese have spent the past few decades killing over 1 million Tibetans and torturing a good number of the rest of them. They have destroyed all Buddhist texts and most of the temples. They have tortured and killed any Tibetan they find practicing Buddhism and any member of the clergy who is unwilling to denounce the Dalai Lama. They are trying to wipe out the Tibetan people and culture by populating the land with Chinese immigrants, teaching only Chinese in the schools and putting people in re-education camps to assimilate them to Chinese society.

In addition to these atrocities, the Chinese have virtually destroyed the Tibetan countryside. They have deforested on such a massive scale that they are endangering their own people by the floods and mudslides hitting China as a result of the fast-flowing rivers that deforestation has created. In addition, they are dumping massive amounts of waste in this beautiful countryside and are setting up hydro-electric power plants that are burdening the Tibetan countryside and only benefiting the Chinese who are getting the electricity provided by these power plants.

The Dalai Lama has tried to engage in peaceful talks with the Chinese government for decades, but to no avail. He has proposed a "Middleway Approach" that would allow Tibetan autonomy within China rather than full independence, but the Chinese have disregarded this proposal. I am amazed that the rest of the world has stood by all this time and let this happen. My only thought for why this has happened is because Tibet doesn't have anything the rest of the world wants (natural resources, power, armed forces) so they are placating China and allowing them free reign.

The biggest disappointment is that China was named host of the 2008 Olympics. This signifies that the rest of the world condones their behavior and will not step in to save the Tibetan people. I hope that there are many protests around the world during the Olympics and that awareness is brought to the Free Tibet Movement once again in the hopes of making a difference for the struggle for freedom.

Monks praying

Museum photo

Most revered

Spinning prayer wheels

2008 Olympics

June 22, 2007 - Feeling Better

Sarah and I are feeling so much better now. I think that the Dengue Fever has subsided and our stomach problems are dissipating as well. We had a pretty active day with going up to the Tibetan Compound, seeing a movie, Sarah had a reiki treatment, I went in search of the Astrological Institute (who couldn't do my horoscope reading for a year due to the backlog!), we did some shopping and bought beautiful tapestries and then we went to the local Japanese restaurant for dinner. I just want you to know the pure courage I exhibited by ordering sushi in India just one day after being sick. Some of you might say "dumbass", but I beg to differ. Sometimes you have to live a little.

Colorful tapestries

Pure courage

June 23, 2007 - Michael Jackson Revisited

We took a car from McLeod to Amritsar because we couldn't bear the thought of taking the bus again. The car was not bad at all and only took 5 hours as opposed to the 8 hours by bus. As a bonus, we had a really good driver who hardly ever honked his horn and never made me fear for my life.

We couldn't read and are out of audiobooks so we listened to music. First we heard a little Feist, then some Tracy Chapman. Sarah nodded off during the Natalie Merchant so I switched it to Michael Jackson. It was SO fun! I haven't listened to Miguelito in a long, long time and I had forgotten how fun his songs are.

I have the HIStory collection of his greatest songs and some of the fun ones we heard were: Beat It, Thriller, Rock with You, Remember the Time, Bad, Don't Stop til you Get Enough and Wanna be Startin' Something. It was a blast and I told Sarah that we should have a Michael Jackson party when we get back. This stuff is fun to dance to!

Blast from the past

June 24, 2007 - Train Lovers

During this trip, we have discovered that we love boats and we love trains. This past month in India, we've spent a lot of time on trains, going from one side of the country to the next. Sometimes we take day trains and sit in chairs, but mostly we ride the night trains and get sleeper cars.

I love the comfort of being in an enclosed space. You have time to read, think, daydream and nap. You don't have to feel guilty about not doing something "more important" because there's absolutely nothing else you can do. I like the gentle rocking back and forth of the train and seeing the scenery whiz by outside. I also like the feeling of unity you have with the other passengers. While you might not be going to the same destination, you're still all trapped on board the train and there is camaraderie about that.

The train system here is so good and I'm glad we were able to get around the country this way. You can connect with people and places much better than if you fly from city to city. It's too bad the auto industry has destroyed the train tracks back home. I would love to get from state to state by rail. It would be a lot easier to explore other parts of the country. (Don't even mention Amtrak. I took an Amtrak train from Chicago to SF back in the mid-90s and it was a terrible experience. It is a poorly run company and not a fun way to travel.)

AC chair class

Train riders

June 24, 2007 - Anil's Ghost

This novel, written by Michael Ondaatje, takes place in Sri Lanka during the mid-80s to early-90s. During that time, there was an internal war taking place that involved the government, anti-government insurgents in the south and separatist guerillas in the north. The main character is Anil and her ghost turns out to be one of the other main characters, but he doesn't turn into a ghost until the end.

The story is about the people going through the confusing war. Because it was an internal struggle, each side was trying to get the allegiance of the Sri Lankan people, often through violence and murder. People turned up dead or missing all the time and no one felt like they could do anything about it. The story tells that history, but it also tells about the emotions that these people go through.

Although the book feels really disconnected during the beginning, about half way through it all comes together and is nicely woven. It falls apart a bit at the end, but it's also interesting because we're left wondering what happened to the main character. We get to make it up.

The key themes of this book are loneliness, shock (mental and physical), not really knowing people but being more alike than expected, patriotism and heroism. It's pretty interesting and shed light on something of which I was previously unaware.

Interesting

June 24, 2007 - In a Hurry

At home, everyone is in a hurry. People rush around trying to get places and never have the time to relax and enjoy the journey. It's the same in India. I've noticed in particularly on trains. Somehow they know when we're almost to the station and a good 5 minutes before we've stopped, everyone in the car has gotten up and gotten their luggage down from the shelves. They struggle to stay upright as we lurch and jerk our way into the station. It is so much easier to just stay seated until the train stops and then calmly get up and get your bags. Because so many people have gotten their stuff down and have bolted for the door (where they push and shove until the train stops), it's actually quite empty in the car when we stand up to gather our belongings. I suppose I should be grateful that so many people are in a hurry and have moved on by the time we are ready to stand up.

It's even worse in the States. If they allowed it, people would do this on airplanes. I can just see the whole plane standing up in the aisle and at their seats with all their stuff, trying to hang on while the plane comes in for a landing. It's nice to not be in a hurry these days. i'm sure it'll all change when we get back home, so we might as well enjoy it now.

Still moving

June 24, 2007 - Day in Delhi

We had a total of five hours between trains and we decided to spend it touring around Delhi. (This was braver than you might expect as it was at least 110 degrees outside.) My overall impression of Delhi is that it isn't bad for such a big city. You really see the British influence here. The streets are wide and orderly, there are parks with green lawns and trees and there are a lot of trash cans (and therefore not much trash thrown on the ground).

We started our tour at India Gate which is a 42 meter tall arch commemorating all the Indian soldiers who died during WWI. (Oddly enough, this arch reminded me a lot of the Arc de Triumphe in a very different city than this.) We walked around a bit and saw kids playing in nearby fountains, people having picnics under shade trees and men playing cricket in the park. It was fun to be in a place that reminded me so much of a western city. We drove a little bit up the road to check out the Presidential Palace. It was closed to the public but the buildings were very ornate and pretty.

We then headed off to see some tombs. Humayan's Tomb was built by his grieving widow in the mid-16th century. The Mughal architecture used here, with its dome tops and high arched entrances, set the example for the Taj Mahal. This was an interesting building, but I was more impressed with a small, octagonal tomb located near the entrance gate for this one. It is the tomb of Isa Khan and was built about 20 years before Humayun's Tomb. It was falling apart a bit, but was more intimate and had so many beautiful arches and carvings throughout the structure. The tourist sign admits to not knowing much (read: anything) about Isa Khan, but they sure built him a nice tomb.

Our final stop was to the Bahai Temple. This gorgeous building is shaped like an unfurling lotus flower and is set on beautifully maintained grounds. The building reminded me a lot of the Sydney Opera House - it has the same sail-like structure to it, it's just shaped like a flower instead of a ship. It's quite breathtaking and I'm glad we got to see it.

After this, we headed to the train station to catch our night train to Jodhpur. I only wish we had enough time to see the International Museum of Toilets. You don't expect that kind of humor in India. It would have certainly been interesting.

Bahai Temple

Cricket match

India Gate

Humayun's Tomb

Presidential Palace

June 25, 2007 - Hindu Gods and Goddesses

I have been very interested in the Hindu religion since it is practiced by 85% of the Indian people. Hindus worship a pantheon of gods and it's very difficult to keep them all straight. However, I found a book that provides much illumination on the gods and stories of the Hindu religion. I have listed the must popular gods and goddesses here, mostly for my own information but if it is interesting to others, then that's great too.

Brahma: Has 4 heads which represent the 4 Vedas and he has 4 hands which represent the 4 directions. He holds a rosary, water pot, book, scepter, spoon, bow or lotus. His vehicle is a swan and he is associated with the origin of the universe. While Brahma is part of the holy trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva), he is the least popular god among them.

Vishnu: Is blue colored and is always clothed in yellow. He has 4 hands and holds the wheel, conch shell, club and lotus. His vehicle is Garuda (half-man/half-bird) and he stands or sits on the serpent king Sheshanga. His consort is Lakshmi and he is known as the benevolent creator god. There are 10 major incarnations of Vishnu (a bit confusing): Matsya (fish), Kurma (tortoise), Varaha (boar), Narsimha (man-lion), Vamana (dwarf), Parashurama, Rama, Krishna, Buddha and Kalki.

Shiva: Has 3 eyes with the third eye typically closed. He wears snakes around his arms and neck, has long hair and supports the Ganga on his head. He has 2-4 arms and holds a trident, axe, antelope and hour glass. He is naked except for a tiger skin and a garland of skulls. He is very fair colored except for his blue throat from swallowing poison during the churning of the ocean. His consort is Parvati, his children are Ganesh and Skanda and his vehicle is the bull. Shiva represents destruction and fertility and is likely the most popular god.

Ganesh: Has an elephant's head, a pot belly and is usually red or yellow in color. He has 4-10 arms that hold a rope, axe, goad and dish of sweets. He is one of the most popular gods as he is known as "the remover of obstacles".

Lakshmi: Is the consort of Vishnu and is known as the goddess of wealth and good fortune. He has 4 arms that hold a lotus flower and gold coins.

Brahma

Vishnu

Shiva

Ganesh

Lakshmi

June 25, 2007 - Stormy Scare

Sarah came up to the room after checking her email and was in tears. She had gotten an email from Amy saying that Stormy (her cat) was really sick. Tragedy. Sarah has been going through a really hard time lately and this is like being kicked while she's down.

We spent some time talking about Stormy and remember all the funny, wonderful things that happened in the last 12 years that she has been part of Sarah's life. We talked about how sad it is that you would go home if any of your friends or family was sick, but not if your beloved pet is sick and possibly dying. It's strange. This kitty has been with Sarah longer than any of her friends and she gets so much love and comfort from this furry friend. It's strange to think that it's unacceptable in our culture to go home and be with the little muffin if they are sick or in their last days.

We promptly canceled our plans for the next day and made plans to call Amy to get more info and to call the vet if necessary. The next morning, we learned from Amy that Stormy was responding to the antibiotics and was doing much better. It was such a relief and it was also really good to connect with Amy again. I think that Stormy will recover from this and be there to snuggle in Sarah's arms when we get home. Whew!

Bare belly

June 27, 2007 - Mehrangarh Fort

We decided to go to Jodhpur because we saw a pretty picture in a guidebook. Luckily, the city didn't disappoint. Jodhpur is located in the state of Rajasthan which is in the western part of India. The towering Mehrangarh Fort along with the glow of the blue houses combine to make this a beautiful place to visit. In addition to the pretty sights, the people were really friendly and it was fun to walk through the labyrinth of the narrow alleys that connected the city.

The Mehrangarh Fort is definitely the focal point of Jodhpur. It stands 400 feet above the city and sits atop natural sandstone cliffs. The fort was built in the mid-1400s by Rao Jodha, the 15th emperor of the Rathore Dynasty. We took the audio tour of the fort and were delighted with the quality of the tour. It provided a lot of great information and was dramatic enough to hold our interest. The fort was a fascinating piece of history and the views of the blue city below were beautiful. This was a great day for us and I have decided to overlook the fact that a cow tried to kill me on the way to the fort. (It was that good!

Mehrangarh Fort

View from below

Girls on tour

June 27, 2007 - A Very Different India in 2AC

Every time we take a train in India, we get seats in 2AC, which means 2nd class air conditioning. On these trains, we see a very different India than the one we see in the towns we visit. This is because we meet wealthy Indians on these trains and their lives are so much different than the people sleeping on the streets, walking around without shoes, begging for food or hawking goods on the street.

On our train from Jodhpur to Mumbai, we were lucky twice over. The first set of people sharing our compartment was a couple from Jodhpur who believed that we were their guests and "guest is god". They talked to us a lot about their family life and their views of the country. They also shared their homemade dinner with us.

They got off the train around 4am and we thought we'd be alone til we reached Mumbai around 11am. But an Indian man named Raj got on around 6am and entertained us completely til we got off the train. He told us all about his life and it sounded like a lot of fun. He is very well-off and has a huge circle of friends as well as a very close-knit family. He gave us a complete itinerary of things we should do in Bombay and even set us up with spa appointments and told us what we should order at his favorite restaurants. He was fantastic and really set us up for a great time in Bombay.

Homemade meal

New friend

June 28, 2007 - Touch of Joy

After 5 weeks of baking under the Indian sun, walking around in flip flops and using cheap shampoo, we were in desperate need of some personal maintenance. The first order of business upon reaching Bombay was to get some work done. We went to Touch of Joy for a full day of beauty. We got facials, waxing, massages, manicures, pedicures, deep conditioning and hair cuts. It was so fun to be in a real salon again and the treatments were fantastic. It really made a huge difference and both physically and mentally. We sloughed off the old, dead stuff and started afresh.

Peachy glow

Full service

June 28, 2007 - Bombay - What a Relief

The official name for this city is Mumbai (renamed after independence from the British in 1947) but most Indians still call it Bombay. Therefore, I'll do as the Indians d and call it Bombay from now on.

Bombay was completely unexpected for us. It is entirely different from the rest of the country. It's a very westernized city with a grid system of streets and sidewalks for pedestrians. We stayed down at the very tip of the city in an area called Colaba. It is surrounded by water and has lots of big old houses and tree lined streets and plenty of great cafes and restaurants.

We found a great cafe called Basilico's very near our hotel and delighted in getting good coffee again. The food was fantastic too. We ate several meals there because it was so delicious and fun to be in a proper cafe again.

Great cafe

June 28, 2007 - Bollywood!

Bombay is the home of Bollywood. We really wanted to see a Bollywood movie before we left so we headed out to the Inox theatre (very much like our theatres at home) and saw one called Jhoom Barabar Jhoom. It was phenomenal! It was all in Hindi but that didn't much matter because it was a typical love story. The best part was all the fantastic dancing that went on throughout the movie. Not only are they fantastic dancers, but they are so clearly enjoying themselves while they're dancing. It was a joy to watch.

The most famous Bollywood actor had a small part in this movie. He was dressed kind of like Willie Nelson but with eye liner and more style. He looked ridiculous but he totally embraced his role and pulled it off. The man is pure sex appeal. I'm definitely going to buy this movie when I get home. It was such fun to see it and I can't get the songs out of my head.

Jhoom Barabar Jhoom

June 29, 2007 - Clubbing in Bombay

We really wanted to check out the club scene in Bombay. First, we went to Trishna, a fantastic seafood restaurant recommended by our friend Raj. We had a bottle of gorgeous red wine and got an umbrella escort down the alley to a club called Red Light.

I expected it to be some great Indian music with everyone doing banghra dancing. That was really far from what it was. In fact, it could have been any club in SF. They played mostly hip hop music and people danced like we dance at home. There was a lot more bumping and grinding than I thought there would be for a culture that doesn't believe in public touching or intimacy before marriage.

We had a great time dancing around the place and were absolutely thrilled when our new favorite song "Jhoom Barabar Jhoom" came on. It was a fun night and it felt good to dance again.

June 30, 2007 - Indian Outfits

Sarah wanted to buy a sari in India and I wanted to get a dress like the one we saw in the Bollywood movie. So we went along to a dress shop and spent a couple hours trying on fantastic Indian outfits. It was really fun! Sarah found a lovely sari and a very elegant dress that fit her perfectly in shape and color. I already own a sari so I just got a dress. It's a really fun one with a long skirt and a short top. I'm going to have to do some serious ab work if I'm ever going to be able to wear it in public, but it's good motivation.

Sarah's sari

Fun dress

Very elegant

June 30, 2007 - Absolutely Distraught

I got word from Simon today that Her is quite sick. Looks like she's got a tumor in her small intestine and it's fairly advanced. She has lost a third of her body weight and continues to have trouble eating. This breaks my heart more than I can possibly express.

Most people know that I am absolutely crazy about this cat. She's truly the best cat in the world. She such a social animal and loves it when company comes over to visit her. She is also absolutely hilarious. She is a constant source of entertainment and love. She is sweet and snuggly, follows us around just to be in our presence, comes when you call her, has a voice like a truck driver, loves to show you her belly, drinks out of wine glasses or straight from the faucet, bites really hard but only out of love, speaks Spanish, is a computer scientist, loves to dance and is like a daughter to me.

I'm having a hard time dealing with this and am not really sure what to do. I literally cannot stop crying. I have to try to make decisions from far away and trust people who I barely know to love her and take care of her in these final days. This is very difficult. I want to be with her and help her though this final bit. It's strange that we'd go home for any of our friends and family, but I feel like I'm not supposed to go home for this sweet little angel who has been my constant companion for the past 5 years. But I don't really care if people think I'm a crazy cat lady if I fly home to see Her through this terrible ordeal. I wouldn't want to have her go through it without me. And what's money if you're not spending it on things you think are important.

Keep me and Her in your thoughts for the next couple weeks. It's going to be rough.

Glamour puss

Charming

Loving

Missing her mom