September 1, 2007 - El Chorro Climbing

El Chorro is one of the best climbing areas in Spain. We found a couple of guidebooks and Karl did a bunch of research on the best climbing crags and how to get there. We really lucked out with the weather. It was cool and breezy and we weren't in the sun at all. That's pretty amazing for southern Spain in September.

We donned our "Rock Goddess" t-shirts that Kir got us and went to the Caliza crag because it had a <1 minute approach, was in the shade all day and had a plethora of grades we were capable of climbing. The crag was fine - great views but a bit close to the road. When we go back, we'll try to get into the canyon a bit more.

Karl and Kir did some amazing leads and I felt fantastic because I did 3 leads and felt strong and secure and was able to pull some hard moves on TR that I didn't think I'd be able to do. Sarah didn't feel well all day but did a couple of climbs and her first lead in months and took some great pictures. Kir and I worked a project for quite a while. It was a really steep 6a that presented ground-fall problems on lead. Neither of us could pull it on lead but we felt better that Karl couldn't either. And we felt even better that we were able to get it on TR later in the day.

Big rock

Cool moves from Karl

Rock goddesses

Lake at sunset

September 3, 2007 - The Island of Mallorca

Ever since we saw a Climbing Magazine spread with Chris Sharma (I swear I don't have a crush on him) free-soloing in Mallorca, we got it in our heads that we should climb there too. Mallorca is a little island just off the east coast of Spain. Being relatively close, it made sense to make our dream a reality.

Mallorca is a gorgeous island with lush vegetation, beautiful clear blue water and limestone everywhere you turn. However, this place is not for the faint-of-heart. Our first set of challenges came in the form of lost luggage. The airline misplaced both of Karl's bags and it seemed unlikely that at least one of them (the one with all the expensive climbing gear) would be found again. Our next big challenge came when we arrived at the hotel. A far cry from the pix and promises on their website, we were overrun with ants and were at the mercy of openly hostile Germans running the place like any good maniacal despot.

We responded to these challenges with grace and poise.... we walked down to the nearest bar and had claras (beer and lemonade) and played canasta for the rest of the day.

Our inspiration

Map of Mallorca

Our huts

Canasta at Pepe's

September 5, 2007 - Climbing Kirstens at Valldemossa

As we were looking for potential climbing spots in Mallorca, we came across an area with two climbs named after our favorite girl - Kirsten. What's more, they were rated within our ability level and surrounded by other climbs we could do as well. Therefore, our first order of business was to climb Kirsten I and Kirsten II in the Valldemossa area.

Kirsten geared up to climb her namesake and we all gathered round to take pictures and enjoy the moves. It was a bit surprising that the sequence to the second bolt was really sketchy. Kir tried it several times and came really close but felt that it was too dangerous to pull. On her way down from an attempt, she inadvertently knocked the draw off the first bolt. Her only piece of protection was gone and things got really scary. I stopped breathing, Sarah's eyes almost popped out, Karl stopped talking and Kirsten calmly held on for dear life, reclipped the bolt and ran the rope through it. Whew! Deep breath people, deep breath. Needless to say, that scared the crap out of all of us and Kir relinquished the climb to Karl. He got up it with some difficulty and we all TR'd it. We then moved over to Kirsten II and all of us led up that one just to teach Kirsten a lesson.

We had a great time coming up with Kirsten-themed quips, such as:

* "Kirsten is more complex than she appears."

* "Whoever thought Kirsten was easy was wrong."

* "Kirsten can knock the feet out from under you."

* "Karl gets Kirsten better than Kirsten gets herself."

After we ticked off those two climbs, we scrambled further up the hill to climb three more within our range. I set up a 6a but was disappointed with myself because I had to grab a draw to make a clip and because I told Kirsten and Karl to stop talking (mean climbing sucks). Sarah went up a 5+ and did a great job despite needing to cry part way through it. It was a rough day for the rock goddesses (near-death, snapping at the ground-crew and crying mid-climb) but we managed to pull through and laugh about our weaknesses and bask in the knowledge that we love each other no matter what happens. :-)

Kirsten meets Kirsten

Karl leading up Kirsten I

Leslie leading up Kirsten II

Sarah making the move

The view from the crag

September 6, 2007 - Exploring Mallorca

After a long day of climbing without much food, all we wanted to do today was sleep in and eat all day long. We managed to do both of those things plus drive around most of the island. We spent some time in Soller having coffee and watching the people. Then we headed off to find a castle and a crag. After driving for about an hour up a single lane dirt road with hairpin turns, we opted to stop at the restaurant, have lunch and admire the castle and the crag from afar. Both were lovely.

We then headed north to check out the town of Alcudia. We stopped at a seaside restaurant for wine and homemade desserts and then proceeded along the road until we were hungry again, at which point we stopped in Arta for some dinner. We then drove down south to Palma and back into our home of Port de Soller. It was a nice day of hanging out with our favorite people (each other).

Downtown Soller

Restaurant near the castle

Rock goddesses out of costume

Beach in Alcudia

September 7, 2007 - Climbing at S'Estret (aka: "Easy Street" to Kirsten and "Secret" to Sarah)

We were all eager for more climbing so we headed to the S'Estret area which has the perfect combination of features - easy climbs, short approach and shade. This was a big day for all of us. We all led all 5 climbs and no one fell or even weighted the rope once all day long. That is impressive folks. The climbs were a lot of fun with some cool moves and some hard parts that were all there, but required some technique and some bravery. Sometimes, you just have to believe that you can do it. It was a really fantastic day and we decided to head home early so we would have some energy left for another round of canasta.

We headed home and rested and showered and packed up for our departure the next day. Then we headed down to the Pacific Cafe for one more round of yummy burgers and fresh salads. Two bottles of wine later, Kirsten and I came back from a 120 to 2000 point hand to win our final canasta game in Spain.

Really cool clouds rolling over the mountains

September 9, 2007 - So tired

Wow am I glad to be "home" and have some time to rest and relax. We've spent a lot of time with other people lately. And as much as I love to be with my friends and meet new ones, it takes a lot out of me. I am someone who needs downtime.

Sarah and I are still here together but we move independently and are taking the time we need to rejuvenate. I spent a lot of time reading and relaxing by the pool. I either hike or run every day and I do a bit of yoga from time to time. It's ben really nice and I'm already starting to feel better.

September 11, 2007 - Water for Elephants (book)

by Sara Gruen

This is a really fun story about a 90 year old man remembering his days with the circus during the Great Depression. The prologue of the book sets the reader on the path to thinking the story will play out in a certain way. You spend most of the book with an assumption about one of the main characters and when we get to that section in the book, we are given more information and everything you held to be true, is suddenly turned upside down. It is actually a most pleasant turn of events and is really gives you a jolt of excitement and surprise.

The author apparently did a lot of research on this topic and cites several of her sources in the summary of the book. This lends a great deal of credibility to the story and helps you accept it even more so as a little bit of history revealed through the joy of a great story. The story sheds light on the era of the traveling circus and on the struggles during the Depression. It also provides interesting insight on relations between people of different classes, the consequences of reactions to tragedy and love, the fascinating dynamic between animals and humans and the impact of neglecting elderly people by hustling them off to a nursing home.

Kirsten brought this book to Spain with her and eagerly passed it along to us. We read it and wanted to tell other people about it. It's a fun book with a twist and will provide a lot of entertainment.

Fun story

September 14, 2007 - Hiking the Axarquia

Today I went in search of a hike. We are surrounded by small mountains that make up what's called the Axarquia. I went down to the river and walked along until I came to a path that led straight up for about 30 minutes. As I crested a hill, the trail opened up to a huge valley and far-off views of the sea and the little towns that lay beside it. It was great to be out on such a lovely, sunny day and I rejoiced in my solitude. I walked for about an hour and a half and then decided to turn back since I didn't have any food with me. I'll definitely come back and hike this trail to the end when I am a bit more prepared for a long hike.

Pine tree

Leslie

Crooked trunk

Winding trail

September 15, 2007 - Splash

We were told that one of the local bars was having an end-of-the-season party tonight. So we took ourselves down to Splash and ended up having a blast. There was a live band there and a lot of ex-pats partying it up in our little town of Frigiliana. Their reckless abandon was contagious and we were soon spilling our cocktails and dancing wildly along with the rest of them.

We were having so much fun that we didn't want the night to end. A few of our friends were going into Nerja to continue dancing so we went out to catch a cab to join them. Unfortunately, all the cabs were gone but I flagged down a passing car to see if we could score a ride to Nerja. A guy named Miguel agreed but that didn't end up going so well. So we got out of his car at some point and after walking back up the highway, were lucky enough to get picked up by another, more sane, passerby. All's well that ends well.

Splash

Splashtonbury ad

September 17, 2007 - Language Class

We signed up for a language class that meets for an hour and a half, two days a week. This sounded like the kind of intensity we could handle (read: low) and we were delighted with our professor (Alfonso) and our classmates (a bunch of 60+ year old British ex-pats with mediocre Spanish skills and excellent humors.

I liked the class a lot because I got to work on my conversation skills, which were entirely lacking. My high school Spanish class provided me with a decent vocabulary but no practice in putting the words together to make sentences. As a result, a lot of my attempts at speaking Spanish have resulted in sentences held together more with enthusiasm and hand gestures than with verbs or transitions.

Sarah wasn't so keen on the class, thinking it a bit over her head. She dropped out fairly quickly but still hopes to study the language again at some point in her life. I continued the class nearly til then end but stopped going when I became absolutely obsessed with website stuff. So easily distracted.

Our school

Our classroom

September 20, 2007 - Climbing at El Chorro

We rented a car for a week so we could do a bit more climbing and explore other cities in the area. Our first trip was to El Chorro for some more climbing. We looked through the guidebook and found another area (Albercones) that had lots of moderate routes and had the added benefit of a short approach. We strung up a couple of 5s to warm up and then did a 6a called Big Fun. We swung the TR around on this one to do a neighboring 6c but were so vehemently rejected from getting even 10 feet off the ground, that we hustled up to retrieve our anchor and then went over to do a 6a called Monton de Chatarra. Sarah led up it but got stuck halfway up and couldn't go any farther. So she came down and I went up and finished it off. We cleared out of there as the sun was going down and went home happy after a good day of climbing.

We met a very friendly Spanish girl at the crag who really liked our American accents. Not sure how that's possible, but she claimed it to be truth. I was kicking myself for not getting her contact information because Sarah decided that she was done with climbing for a while, which means no more climbing for me til we get back home and I have all my other climbing friends to go on trips with.

A dam and the rock

Albercones area

Our tiny car

Train crossing

September 21, 2007 - The Joy of a Good Storm

A raging storm rolled through Frigiliana today. The sky grew very dark and the lightening started flashing. Soon, massive amounts of rain dropped from the sky in solid sheets. It wasn't long before we lost our electricity (along with the rest of Frigiliana and Nerja). We sat around reading our books and watching the rain fall. Occasionally, we would peer out the window to watch the first floor tenants desperately trying to sweep water out of their homes.

It's such a romantic feeling to be shuttered in your house, safe from the storm. It's exciting and intense to be held at bay by the weather. After 8 hours, just as I was getting bored and starting to wonder how we'd eat dinner (electric stove), the power came back on and everything returned to normal. It was a nice change but was quickly forgotten as electricity brought back the internet, cooking and tv shows.

September 22, 2007 - Shadow of the Wind (book)

by Carlos Ruiz Zafon

Ironically, this book was first recommended to us when we were in Tonsai and again when we were in India and again when we were in Turkey. When Amy brought it out to Spain with her, I knew that I was meant to read this book!

I really enjoyed reading this book but find it difficult to describe. There are so many sub-plots and changes of narrator that it really creates a complex tapestry of events and relationships. Daniel, the main character, is the son of a book seller in post-civil war Barcelona. His father takes him to the Cemetary of Forgotten Books where he is allowed to choose one book and promise to cherish and protect it. I love that idea. I love the thought that there are people out there who watch over the books that people are trying to suppress or the books that were brilliant but failed to grasp public notoriety. I also think it's great that in this world, they are teaching their children to love and respect books so that will continue to be a part of our world.

The book that Daniel chooses is called Shadow of the Wind and it changes his life. He becomes obsessed with the author and several stories evolve out of the author and his life, most of which come down to "the ties that bind" (family, parentage, friends, enemies, lovers).

I like this book because it is a great mystery - it's exciting and invigorating and it keeps you chasing and guessing. I also like it for it's commentary on good and evil by showing the black, the white and some of the gray in between. The romance parts of the book are a bit predictable, but still enjoyable. And although the book doesn't delve deep into the political situation of the time, it does provide a bit of insight into it.

Set in Barcelona

September 22, 2007 - Malaga Excursion

Since we had the car for a week, we wanted to visit some other nearby cities. We decided on Malaga based on some recommendations from other travelers. It was a nice drive and a beautiful day. We went first to the Gibralfaro Castle. This 14th century Moorish palace sits high up on the hill overlooking the port of Malaga. Directly beneath it is the Alcazaba with it's lovely gardens, traditional Moorish architecture and ancient Roman theatre.

We wandered downtown to the Catedral to look at the soaring ceilings, sculptures and pews. After having coffee in a nearby plaza, we walked along amidst the many wedding parties taking place and sought out the Picasso Museum. Picasso was born in Malaga and the museum here has an excellent collection of his work, donated by Picasso's daughter in law. After seeing the beautiful pieces, we decided that we were done being tourists and headed home.

Gibralfaro Castle

Pretty flower

Port of Malaga

Artistic trees

September 25, 2007 - Five Hour Hike

I went for a major hike today. I followed the same trail through the Axarquia that I had done a couple weeks ago. But this time I went the distance, which ended up being about 20 kilometers (12 miles). I had a great time walking along at my own speed, in my own world. The only people I came across was a Dutch couple who had set out without food or much water and were lost. After stocking them up, I continued on until I came to the end of the trail. It dumped out to a river that was raging thanks to the recent rainfall. It was really pretty and I spent quite a long time sitting there watching the water and eating lunch. It was a great day and I was happily exhausted when I got back home.

End of the trail

Flowing water

September 27, 2007 - Bummer

Oh what a cruel world. I have decided to postpone going to acupuncture school because I can't bear the thought of not earning any money for the next 4 years. Loan interest rates are so high and student loan terms just aren't what they used to be (back in my day). I contacted Genentech to see if there were any openings on my old team. Alas there were none and the only other group I was interested in working with had just hired two new people and didn't need anyone else.

I felt absolutely demolished. All of a sudden I felt scared about the realities of life - needing to find a job, having to go through formal job hunting, applying and interviewing processes again for the first time in over 5 years, needing to find a place to live, etc. I felt for a minute that I'd made a huge mistake in taking this trip - that I'd really exposed myself to danger because surely I wouldn't be able to find a job, or afford an apartment, or have any friends. You can see the extent of my drama. (It was actually much worse than this, but I'm blocking that out just now.)

So I did the only thing I knew would help me... I sent SOS emails to Kirsten and Karl with a plea to skype asap. Karl picked it up right away and we were soon talking everything over. I felt so much better after going through it all with him. I think it's not uncommon to have trouble readjusting to "normal" life after a trip like this and Karl reassured me that I am very talented with great experience and would soon find the job I wanted. And in the meantime, I had a rent-free place to stay with Kirsten or with him for as long as necessary. A conversation with Kirsten soon followed and she backed it all up with messages of love and support and reassurance. It is the luck of my life to have friends like this.

September 28, 2007 - Home Alone

Sarah left a couple days ago so she could attend her brother's wedding in Indiana. I know she's looking forward to seeing her family again and, even though this was quite an expense, I know she made the right decision about going home for this. So I'm here all alone and am quite enjoying it. Alone but not lonely. It's nice to have the run of the place and stay up as late as I want (which is really late) and play my music as loud as I want and do yoga in the middle of the living room whenever I want, etc. I know I'll be glad to have my friend back in a week, but I'm also enjoying the freedom of being on my own for a few days.

September 29, 2007 - Female Brain (book)

by Dr. Louann Brizendine

This book came about because the author realized during medical school that all of the clinical data in existence on neurology, psychology, and neurobiology focused exclusively on males. In response to this, Brizendine established the first clinic in the country to study and treat women’s brains. This research, along with additional research done by the National Institute of Health, combined to provide an interesting perspective on how the female brain works, including some resulting behaviors that are inherently female, and the difference in the way females process thought.

I found the information interesting and could generally agree with the points made (solely based on my qualifications as a female) but felt that the book lacked a scientific feel. The appendix contains about 40 pages of sources and citations, but the actual reading of the text feels a little light on pure data and more reliant on anecdotal information. I'm not really sure why that is, but that's how I felt throughout the reading of the book.

However, any insight we can gain is appreciated. We know that men and women are inherently differently and it's been supposed for centuries that women were inferior to men because of these differences. I think that a lot of people now realize this isn't true but are still taught the old paradigms of rational behavior and logical thought based on men.

Some interesting things from the book:

• Women use about 20,000 words a day; men use about 7,000 words a day
• Every brain begins as a female brain until 8 weeks after conception when the male brain is flooded with testosterone and everything changes. Testosterone kills off a percentage of communication cells and grows more sex and aggression cells.
• One of the first thing a baby girl learns to do is study faces. They are interested in emotional expression and take meaning about themselves from every reaction from the people they come in contact with.
• Women tend to have faster and better fine-motor skills than men, as well as faster and broader verbal skills. Women have more neurons in the part of the brain devoted to emotions and to detecting emotions in others. In a complex situation, a woman is likely to understand the overall situation better than a man, while paying attention to the emotional content and the emotional effects of the circumstances.
• A woman's brain is altered forever after motherhood to enhance the survival of her children.

Insightful

September 30, 2007 - Nicole Visits Spain

We met Nicole when we were in Turkey on the boat cruise along the Mediterranean Sea. We took to each other immediately and exchanged emails with the usual promises of visiting each other at some point. Well, this time it actually happened! Yay!

Nicole took a few days off work to escape the dreary London weather and get some peace from her stressful job and her travels would be taking her to Nerja, which is just 10 minutes from Frigiliana. I told her to come and stay with me since there was plenty of room in our house and she did.

We went for a nice hike, laid by the pool, walked around the village, and went for dinner at the Garden restaurant. It was really nice to catch up with her and to talk about the things that had been going through my head lately. It's an easy friendship that feels like it's been around longer than it has been.

View of Nerja

Nicole

Nicole and Leslie