May 1, 2007 - Tibetan Tea

We visited a monastery on our way out of Chame. Many villagers were there preparing for the next day's celebration of Buddha Day. When we walked through the gate, a woman offered us cups of Tibetan tea. We gladly accepted and then had to keep ourselves from spitting it back out. It was very salty and Sarah most accurately described it as tasting like dough. Salty dough. We got down as much as possible, which wasn't very much. Dambar finished off mine and then Sarah's (in addition to his own) so as to not be rude. We then went in and looked around the monastery for a bit. About 5 minutes after we started out, Dambar said he had to pull off the trail to go to the bathroom. We joked that he had to make Tibetan tea and, from that point forward, we used the euphemism every time we had to pee.

May 1, 2007 - A Banner Day

While we were walking, I asked Dambar about the snot spitting that is so common in Nepal. Our stomaches turn every time someone hocks up a bunch of snot and spits. They do it so frequently and don't seem bothered by it so I wanted to know from Dambar what it was about. He told us it's just a bad habit they have developed and it's not only offensive to tourists but to other Nepalese as well. As he was offering the explanation, unbidden from me, came snot from my lungs and I had to spit. I coughed it up from deep within and then panic-stricken asked Sarah what I should do with the snot in my mouth. She hurriedly gave me permission to spit it out and the rest is history. I am disgusting.

But it doesn't end there. Nope. As we walked along, I was feeling really gassy and kept burping and passing gas as we went along. Not very ladylike, but it's not good to keep that stuff in. Soon enough, I had to dash off the trail repeatedly for desperate bouts of poopers. It just didn't stop. Later that night, I was crying in our room as Dambar held a bucket for me and tried to squeeze the puke out of me (I'm not kidding).

Sarah called this a banner day for me - spitting, burping, farting, peeing, poopers and nearly vomiting all the way from Chame to Pisang. What have I become?

Before the storm

Full of air

May 2, 2007 - Buddha Day

Buddhism and Hinduism are the two main religions in Nepal. Some Nepalese follow one or the other, but it is also common to combine the two together and follow some amalgamation of them. Many Himalayan villages have prayer wheels set up as you walk through the town gate. Villagers take their religion very seriously and spin the wheels every time they pass and chant Om Mani Padme Hum as they meditate on their porches.

On Buddha Day, we visited a monastery in Braka (near Manang) to witness the ceremony. Lamas were chanting and presenting offerings at the altar. Villagers sat on the floor and prayed and also gave offerings to the Buddha. It was nice to see local customs and the celebration for something that they didn't teach us about in Catholic school (funny that).

Wanting to learn about Buddhism while we are here, I bought a book in Kathmandu about the religion and learned quite a bit during the trek. In addition, Dambar has a lot of knowledge about Buddhism and Hinduism and shared this information with me as we went along. This will be a great foundation of knowledge for our trip to Dharamsala India where I'll learn even more about this interesting religion.

Guatama Buddha

Religious ceremony

May 2, 2007 - Harry Potter

With a new Harry Potter book coming out in July, Sarah and I decided to get the last book (Half Blood Prince) and reread it while on our trek. But we added a little twist - we read it aloud in British accents. It was quite fun! We took turns reading to each other and our accents got quite good. It's such a great story and the make-believe quality of the book was so welcome after a long day of trekking. It was jolly good fun - especially when accompanied by a cup of tea and biscuits.

Great story

Perfecting the accent

Snuggled up

May 3, 2007 - Speaking Nepali

We started learning to speak Nepali as soon as we began our trek. Dambar taught us so many useful words and phrases and always acted like a proud papa when we were able to understand and speak in his language. It was so fun to learn this new language and even more fun to see the surprise and joy on villagers faces when we were able to speak with them in their own language.

Here are a few of the things we learned:

• Namaste (Hello/Goodbye)
• Dunnaybad (Thank you)
• Hajur (Yes)
• Chhaina (No, nothing)
• Tapai lai kasto chha? (How are you?)
• Malai sanchai chha. (I'm fine.)
• Tapai ko nam kay ho? (What is your name?)
• Miro nam Leslie ho. (My name is Leslie.)
• Tapai kati barsho bayo? (How old are you?)
• Ma chautis barsho bayo. (I am 34 years old.)
• Suba ratri (Good night)
• Suba prabhat (Good morning)
• Malai garmi bhayo. (I am hot.)
• Maiai jaro bhayo. (I am cold.)
• Malai takai lagyo. (I am tired.)
• Malai bhok lagyo. (I am hungry.)
• Pheri betaula. (See you later.)
• Hambro charpi ka ha ho? (Where is the toilet?)
• Bistarde (slowly)
• Ramro (good)

May 3, 2007 - 12,000 Feet and Matt Dillon

We stayed in Manang (elevation 12,000 feet) and extra day so we could acclimate to the altitude. We hung out and read our books, did some laundry and had chocolate danish and hot cocoa. Acclimatization is fun!

We also ventured out on a hike up to a monastery high up on a hill so we could get another 1000 feet under our belts. the lama and his wife blessed us and gave us good luck necklaces so we would cross the Pass without trouble.

Sarah and I had another night of crazy dreams. When we woke the next morning and shared the stories, we were amazed to learn that Matt Dillon was in both our dreams! Too crazy. I know Sarah and I are close, but this is getting ridiculous. Just so you know, in my dream, I was trying to get Matt Dillon and Nicole Kidman to go out with each other. In Sarah's dream, Reese Witherspoon and Matt were trying o adopt a baby. The only explanation we could come up with is that we saw a Matt Dillon poster (think The Outsiders) in one of the cafes several days earlier. That and maybe a bit too much Us Magazine reading on the flight to Kathmandu. Or more likely, we'd gone mad from the elevation.

Laundry day

Up at the monastery

Matt Dillon

May 3, 2007 - Full of Yi

I have been reading a book about Chinese medicine and have learned all sorts of fascinating things. The Chinese word "yi" indicates intention, willpower, determination or awareness of the possibilities that are open to us to make changes in our lives. That's really what this trip is for us. We have ventured out into the world with the intention of learning about it as well as learning about ourselves and opening ourselves up for change in our lives. We already feel that significant changes have taken place in our minds regarding careers, marriage, children and much more. We are so full of yi at this moment and are sending out many prayers that the changes we hope for will come about.

Brimming with yi

May 4, 2007 - And The Economist Too!

We met two men from Northern California on the trail and took to them immediately. Ted and Bob came to our rescue in so many ways. First of all, they gave us excellent guidance on our itinerary for India. By that I mean that they planned that part of our trip for us. This is quite a blessing because we clearly don't have time for trip planning while we're on our trip. Not only did they plan our itinerary, but they also gave us good beta on some of the culture-shock issues that could come up (constant staring, filth, squatty potties, groping, etc). This preparation will go a long way in helping us deal with any adversities that might arise. It's better to be prepared. What's more, they convinced us to do a 10-day silent meditation while in India. This is something I've been very interested in doing and now have the courage to give it a try.

They also gave us a 2GB memory card for our camera at a very low price (more pictures for you to look at!). In addition, as I was experiencing some problems breathing at 12,000 feet, they gave us good advice on how to acclimate and proceed up the mountain more easily. They also gave us a supply of Diomox for emergency altitude sickness and Grapefruit Seed Extract for belly distress.

On top of all this, the icing on the cake was when they handed over the last two issues of The Economist. I swear to you that a tear came close to breaking the surface at this point. All needs and desires had been fulfilled.

It's so amazing when special people come into your life and shine their light on you at just the right moment to help you achieve your goals.

May 4, 2007 - Srivasta Tattoo

I have wanted to get a tattoo for years now but have never come across any symbol that was meaningful enough for me to permanently display on my body. I had hoped that something would come up while we were on this trip so that I'd have a meaningful symbol as well as a constant reminder of this amazing adventure. Alas, it has happened. I've found the perfect symbol - the endless knot. This beautiful design symbolizes never-ending compassion - a goal we all strive for - and has no end and no breaks. It is constant and unbreakable and something to remind one of higher goals as well as look beautiful. I won't want to get a tattoo in Nepal, India, Turkey or Morocco so it looks like I'll have to wait til Italy or Spain to get inked.

Coming soon

May 5, 2007 - A Bit of a Failure

After a terrible night of laying in bed wide awake and having difficulty breathing (4,000 meters in Yak Kharka), I decided it would be best for me to stay another day at our current altitude and do an acclimatization hike in hopes of getting my body to perform better at elevation. Sarah and Dambar agreed that this was a good idea and we set about doing our laundry and going up 500 meters to acclimate.

Okay - I know I did the right thing. I wouldn't have done well on the hike up to base camp and I sure wouldn't have been able to breathe or sleep when we got there. But still... I felt like a bit of a failure. All our new friends were heading out as planned and it was sad to be separated from them. Plus, I'm so achievement oriented that it's very difficult to delay the plan set for reaching the goal. I'm letting it go because I did the right thing and I wouldn't have made it otherwise. Besides, this is a good lesson for me to be okay with not being perfect. I can't believe I haven't learned that by now. Clearly a work in progress.

Checking altimeters

Gorgeous view

Acclimating

Yak in Yak Kharka

May 6, 2007 - Power of Two

Right before we left town, Kirsten scored some tickets to an Indigo Girls concert at the Warfield and she, Karl, Sarah and I went to enjoy the sounds. From that moment, their song "Power of Two" has been the theme for our trip. This trip is so much better because we have each other to share it with. When one of us is weak, the other is always strong. We know we can handle any situation together. Such a blessing.

This is good practice for us too. We would both like to settle down when we get home and this is like a learning experience to prepare us for this eventual relationships. All is takes is complete trust and full commitment. You have to truly believe that the other person loves you and wouldn't intentionally hurt you and you have to stand beside each other through thick and thin. It's easy to let little things go when you have a foundation built on those two things.

The chorus, which I love:

So we're okay, we're fine... Baby I'm here to stop your cryin'... Chase all the ghosts from your head... I'm stronger than the monster beneath your bed... I'm smarter than the tricks played on your heart... We'll look at them together then we'll take 'em apart... Adding up a total of a love that's true... Multiply life by the power of two.

Fully committed

May 7, 2007 - Summit Day - 17,700 Feet

We woke up this morning at 4am to find that it had snowed all night long (pretty rare for this time of year). We decided to begin hiking up the first 300 meters to see if it would stop snowing and to assess the possibility of successfully crossing Thorong Pass.

We got started around 5:30am (why did it take an hour and a half to get ready?!) and our new friends Chris and Amrei joined us for the big day. I felt really good, having acclimated nicely by doing an acclimatization hike the previous day. Sarah wasn't feeling so great but felt that she could make it to the top.

The scenery was gorgeous and we had clear skies for much of the journey. We made good time and gained 1000 meters in 5 hours, despite having to "make Tibetan tea" about 10 times. We stopped at the top for some photos and some hot tea and then started the long, long way down the mountain. It took us another 5 hours (and another 10 Tibetan tea stops) to get from Thorong Pass to Muktinath - the first village after the pass. We were all exhausted from the long day and arduous 1000 meter uphilll followed by the knee-killing 1600 meter downhill.

Just like the short trek we did in New Zealand, this trek has also created many friendships for us. We meet people along the way or in the guest house and become fast friends. We so quickly become part of one another's lives and on big days like today, we bond together to help each other through the difficult parts. It's really special.

Team Snow Leopard

When we began

Amazing

Snowy trail

Success!

May 7, 2007 - The Body, The Mind

Ten hours of hiking at high altitude takes a lot out of you. Physically, it is distressing. First off, you go straight up for hours on end and you're barely able to get enough oxygen to keep from passing out and every muscle in your body (particularly your legs) is screaming and begging for mercy. Then you start going down, straight down. The trail is either slick with snow or ice or skree and every step is an adventure in "Let's Fall off the Mountain". Add to that the fact that your (nearly) 35 year old knees are aching and protesting and barely holding you upright and you start to feel that the odds are stacked against you. However, this is mostly a silent distress. No sense in complaining about it to the people you are with since they're going through the same thing you are. Might as well act like nothing's wrong and keep plugging along.

And that brings us to the mental impact. This really catches your attention. You feel so vulnerable and all your emotions are riding on the surface. Sometimes you feel like crying, sometimes laughing, sometimes laughing hysterically. You get upset (really upset) if your friend gets more than 50 meters ahead of you. You worry about how difficult it will be to get your gloves out of your bag or take your jacket off. You fear having to go pee yet again.

But mostly, it's just empty mind space. One foot in front of the other... like a walking meditation. It's very quiet. You're exerting too much effort to have a conversation and your mind is fairly blank. It's basically an all out effort to stay focused and get up, then down the mountain. Fleeting thoughts come from time to time, but this is no time for day dreaming or solving the world's problems. It's a time to stay present in the moment.

Doing that summit hike was an incredibly difficult thing, but I never questioned why I wanted to do it. That was always clear to me. I love pushing myself to my boundaries and beyond and seeing how I handle it and who I become as a result. I also love being out in nature surrounded by breathtaking scenery and overcoming hardships to accomplish something.

May 7, 2007 - Natty Dreadlock

On our approach to Thorong-La Pass, we weren't staying in places with warm showers. This luxury is actually more common than you might expect, thanks to the use of solar panels. Most guest houses have a panel or two to heat up water and power some small things. However, no luck in getting a warm shower for several days and it was far too cold to take a cold shower. Therefore, we were dirty. Really dirty. All the sweat, dirt and pee just kept layering upon itself. And my hair, which had been in a ponytail for several days, truly looked like a single dreadlock. The strange thing is that I really didn't care that much. I was concentrating all my effort on getting up and over that 18,000 foot mountain pass. However, once down from the mountain, the first thing I did was check to see if there was any hot water. There was! And not just warm water, but really hot water. How glorious to stand under the tap and wash away the filth. A wonderful reward for our hard work.

May 8, 2007 - Nothing Left to Give

After such a difficult, effortful summit day, I woke up today feeling absolutely drained. It was hard to get out of bed and even though we had breakfast with a large group of our summit friends, I didn't really feel like socializing with anyone. I was also not looking forward to the 7 hour hike in front of us for the day.

As we were walking down the hill out of Muktinath towards Jomson, I promptly started crying. Not just a tear or tow mind you, but body-shaking sobs. Dambar and Sarah took turns hugging me and we kept walking as I kept crying. Pretty soon Sarah got in on the action and it was one big cry-fest. It passed eventually, but it was really interesting. The previous day was so strenuous, physically and emotionally, and we had to stay strong the entire day because bad things can happen at 18,000 feet if you lose your head. But today was like a release of all those pent up emotions. They came unbidden but I felt better afterwards. As Dambar said, "Crying is good and healthy and cleanses your body of negative energy and adds years on to your life... but please stop now." :-)

May 8, 2007 - Himalayan Winds

Today was supposed to be a fairly moderate trek across nearly flat terrain - plus a little wind. A little wind my ass. We walked along comfortably for the first 2 hours, chatting and dreaming. We turned a corner and got hit with a powerful blast of wind. We ran back around the corner and donned our windproof jackets and then proceeded to fight this wind for the next 4 hours.

This wind was relentless and powerful. We had to learn forwards to stay upright and it felt as though we would be picked up and swept away at any moment. What's more, we were crossing a dried up stream bed which was basically like crossing a desert. It was grueling effort to take a step and was almost as difficult as the previous day's summit bid. Conversation was impossible with the howling and my mind was all over the place. It brought back to mind the quote from a book I'm reading (The Alchemist) that reads, "The desert, with it's endless monotony, put him to dreaming."

I pondered past successes and failures, the frailty of cairns, how difficult it is to get something out of your backpack and why they don't make more accessible pockets up front, Tiny Her curled up to her favorite boy at this exact moment, whether it's too soon to eat a Snickers bar, why Buddhist prayer flags come in 5 colors, whether it's odd to have to go pee again, whether it's possible for any government to function without corruption, how great it would be to eat biscuits and gravy, how old it sounds to have bursitis and whether it's really possible that bones rubbing together isn't harmful, singing the same song over and over again in my head (Power of Two), how great it would be to cook my own meals for a change (gasp!), etc.

We ended up stopping early in another town because we were exhausted. But Dambar says that we'll have 2 more days of this wind. Maybe I'll break out the iPod for a change of tunery.

Wind blows

Wind bandits

Desert trek

May 9, 2007 - So... Where's the Compassion?

Most Nepali people practice Buddhism or some combination of Buddhism and Hinduism. The overriding principle in Buddhism is compassion for all sentient beings. We must have a very different definition of what a sentient being is because the Nepali people are absolutely cruel to their animals. My heart broke over and over again as we were witness to more and more cruelty every day.

They load the mules down with really heavy loads and whip them, smack their faces and throw rocks at them to keep them moving. They also don't give them enough to eat - just a tiny bag of feed each night - and they wear metal cages around their snouts to keep them from eating along the trail. They also chop the beaks off hens, keep goats on such short leashes that they can't graze and shut sheep up in tiny cages.

I don't understand why people treat animals so horribly. I suppose it's mostly ignorance - thinking that the only way to control animals is through fear. I realize this happens everywhere and that in our own country, people control other people through abuse and fear. Even our government uses these tactics to control people. It's just really unfortunate and very difficult to have to witness it every day.

Caged

Loaded down

Short leash

May 10, 2007 - 35th Birthday

Another long day of trekking brought much reflection on my life as I turned 35. That sounds like such an old age but, despite being really tired from 2 weeks of difficult trekking, I don't feel old at all. When Dambar asked, "Why you look so young?" my answer was that it's because I'm happy. And that's true. Being happy and relaxed takes years off your face and body.

So 35 is pretty much middle-aged. The first part of my life has been filled with so much learning and striving and growing and changing. Now I've got so many years in front of me and I feel really good about my future and all the possibilities that lay ahead. I suspect there will still be lots of learning and change is inevitable, but I also suspect that there will be more calm and less chaos. Part of that will be due to this trip and having time to reflect and to dream and to be an adventurer in the ways that bring me happiness.

Sarah didn't let my birthday pass without celebration. She got the boys involved and presents were given, songs were sung, candles were blown out and cake was eaten. But as always, it was her words that truly touched my heart. Telling me all the things she loves about me and reiterating how lucky we are to be on this amazing adventure together - hand in hand, heart in heart. I can think of no better way to spend a birthday - in the land of enlightenment, climbing mountains and in the company of a friend for life.

Kirsten also didn't let me birthday pass without celebration. She rallied all the troops back home and got people to flood my email box with birthday wishes. When I got down from the mountain and saw all of the good wishes from friends and family, I was so excited and felt so loved. Thanks to everyone for making me feel so special. :-)

35 years old

Card from Sarah

Boys bake a cake

Making a wish

Singing a song

May 11, 2007 - Team Snow Leopard

When we were in Kathmandu, we passed several t-shirt making shops. Sarah thought it would be fun to have "team" t-shirts made for our hike and I thought that was a brilliant idea. So we put our heads together and came up with a design. Oddly enough, many of the slogans were inspired by an Aussie we met in Chiang Mai. But they make us laugh and seem appropriate.

"Team Snow Leopard" cam from our trekking company (Snow Leopard Treks) and we found a cool photo of a snow leopard online.

"Attaining Reiki Level 15" is a joke because there are only 3 levels of reiki that one can achieve. But it's also hopeful because we'd like to achieve the balance and centeredness that comes from reiki.

"Expedition 2012" is also a joke. We heard that a cultish sect believes that the world is going to flip upside down in the year 2012 (Gregorian) and the only safe place to be is in Nepal. We're on an expedition to stake out a good place to set up camp.

"High Altitude Chakra Spinning" is that search for balance and well-being - potentially induced by the high altitude.

It was fun to wear the shirts and it made us laugh. Costumes play a big role in our lives so we couldn't miss out on having team shirts to wear on this trek.

On summit day

Good team

May 11, 2007 - In Cold Blood

Since crossing the pass, we broken out the iPod to listen to some music and get a bit of entertainment as we walked for hours and hours over somewhat uninspiring terrain. I was really excited to find that there was still an audiobook on my iPod that I hadn't listened to. Sarah and I took turns listening to it and were grateful for the distraction as we had several long days of going uphill for hours, sometimes in the rain.

Although the title sounds gruesome, this Truman Capote novel is a masterpiece in storytelling.This novel is about an actual crime that took place in Kansas in the 1950s. Apparently, Capote became obsessed with the story and did an immense amount of research before writing about it. He has an amazing way of taking the emotion out of such horrific acts of violence. Not once did I feel scared as I was listening to the book. I think it was because of the incredible detail and background information Capote provides - you become wrapped up in small things and don't get overcome with emotions. It's so unusual for an author to take that path. Typically, writers use emotion to make the story real for readers. It was interesting to read (listen to) such a different style of writing.

In Cold Blood

May 12, 2007 - Not Gonna Make It

Maybe only Anke, Ryan and Tim remember my melodramatic exclamation of "I'm not gonna make it" when we were on our way home from Smitty's one night in the sub-arctic climate of Sausalito. I had to pull the phrase out again, but in slightly different circumstances.

Since climbing up and over Thorong Pass, I haven't been able to recover. I did fine that day, but have been absolutely exhausted ever since. We really should have taken a rest day in order to recover a bit, but we had a schedule and thought we should press on. But today, my body shut down. I was fine the first 2 hours, but soon enough, I was unable to continue. It didn't help that we had over 5 hours more hiking in front of us and that it was all uphill with a total elevation gain of 1700 meters. But regardless, my body gave out. I literally didn't think I was going to make it to our destination.

I felt like such a failure. I started crying out of disappointment in myself and desperation in not knowing how to make it stop. Dambar took lots of heavy things from my pack and carried them for me. Sarah made me some electrolyte water and promised to find some protein for lunch. With all that help, I actually did make it to our destination, but it was a brutal battle the entire time. In fact, everyone struggled with the weight of "a man down" and we all agreed to take a much need rest day in Ghorepani. It's amazing how "not gonna make it" has changed from a chilly 2 block walk home from a bar in Saus to a 7.5 hour hike in Nepal uphill for 1700 meters and the last 2 hours in freezing rain. I've grown.

May 13, 2007 - Finally, A Day of Rest

Since beginning our trek 17 days ago, we have not had a day when we weren't trekking. As a result, we are exhausted, both physically and mentally. We got 11 hours of sleep last night and woke up feeling refreshed. We took hot showers and ate gobs of protein. We sat outside and enjoyed the sunshine and the view. We read and wrote in our journals and chatted the day away. Dr. Dambar helped work out some strained muscles and then went off for endless rounds of pool with Kaka. We remapped our trip and it looks like we can still make it to the Sanctuary within our remaining time. It was so fantastic to just stop and be still for an entire day. I wish we would have planned for more of these along the way.

Great view

Medical attention

May 13, 2007 - Tale of a Topee

When we were in New Zealand (4 months ago), we went into a yarn store in Arrowtown and found some really cool yarn. Sarah got some and said she was going to make me a hat. You can imagine my surprise when she chose pink yarn as it was only a year ago that she put her foot down and said she wouldn't climb with me if I wore pink pants. Sarah has clearly grown since beginning this trip. ;-)

She started working on it when we were in Australia but then it got really hot when we hit Thailand and was just not comfortable to be knitting a wool hat. So it wasn't til Nepal that Sarah picked it up again. She was rolling right along with it during our trek. She thought it looked a little big, so she had me try it on. Sure enough, it looked like I was wearing a bucket over my head. So she ripped it all out and started again. Two weeks later, the hat was finished! What a gal that Sarah is :-) The Nepali word for hat is topee so that is what this hat will forever be to referred as.

A little big

Topee knitter

Topee with tassles

May 13, 2007 - Snickers Evangelist

Over the past few days, we have rediscovered the delights of the Snickers bar. I always knew that Snickers really satisfies, but I didn't realize that it also restored your will to live. It is pure goodness with a bit of salt, a bit of sweet, and a whopping 5 grams of protein. That's more protein than we get from lunch and dinner combined! Each bite is pure delight and, in these days of suffering and deprivation, a ray of hope.

Snickers lover

Evidence

May 13, 2007 - What's Real Will Wait

I'm reading The Alchemist right now and have taken so much from it. Something that stands out for me in this moment is the following

"Don't worry about what you left behind. If what you found is made of pure matter, it will never spoil and you can always go back to it. If what you found was only a moment of light, like the explosion of a star, you will find nothing upon your return."

Doing this trip was difficult. We left jobs, friends, relationships, lifestyles and pets. But in our hearts, we knew that everything that is real and meaningful will still be there for us when we return. It's nice to see that thought echoed in print halfway through our journey.

May 14, 2007 - Poor Trail Planning

We felt so much better after resting for a day that we decided to trek for 8 hours today so we could make it all the way to Chhomrung. If we had known that it would be up and down steep hills all day, we probably wouldn't have done it all in one day. LIterally, we would go straight up for 100 meters and then straight back down for 100 meters, and then repeat for 8 hours. Where's the sense in that?! It's really unfortunate because it's so much unnecessary effort and very hard on the body.

Offending objects

Sarah gathers strength

Huffing and puffing

May 14, 2007 - Tortoises and Hares

Now that we're hiking up and down steep hills, our hiking style is much different than Dambar and Kaka's style. They like to go really fast and then rest every 15-20 minutes or so. We prefer to go at a slow, steady pace and not take any rests. We are literally the Tortoise and the Hare in action. We leap frog each other all day long and every time we come across the boys resting, they call out with pleas of "bas nus" (sit please) and then we explain, time and time again, that resting makes it more difficult for us to get going again.

One day we passed by them and got up to fence that you had to climb up and over. When we got over the fence, it was deep enough to be a hiding place. So I told Sarah to hide with me so we could scare the boys. I heard them coming and when they got close enough, we jumped up out of the abyss and scared the bejeezus out of them! It was awesome! It looked like Dambar might pee himself and Kaka was so thrown off-guard that I thought he might keel over under the weight of our bags. It was hilarious! I'm not one for scaring people, but this was such a perfectly executed surprise attack that it's difficult not to be pleased. :-)

Tortoise and Hare

Hares at rest

May 14, 2007 - Ressham Firiri

On our very first day of trekking, we asked Dambar to teach us a Nepali song that we could sing as we walked. He taught us the popular trekking song called Ressham Firiri. The song is a simple folk song about love and has a very catchy tune. So catchy in fact that we had to beg Dambar not to sing it anymore because it would get stuck in our heads and replay itself over and over. However, tonight it all paid off!

We walked down the steps to the next guesthouse to see a local song and dance program. They pulled us up to dance for the crowd and as a finale, sang Ressham Firiri to us. We proudly joined in the singing, much to their surprise and delight. It was great!

"Ressham Firiri, Ressham Firiri, Urera jauki, daramaa bhanjyang, Ressham Firiri"

"Ek nale banduk, dui nale banduk, Mir galai takeko, Mirgalai maile takeka hoino, Ma yalai dakeko"

May 15, 2007 - The Alchemist

For my Annapurna journey, I brought along a lovely and enchanting book written by Paulo Coelho called The Alchemist. This book has been around for about 10 years and has made the rounds through many book groups during the past few years. However, I'm so glad that I didn't pick it up until this journey around the world and specifically during our trek through Nepal. It is a sweet story about having the courage to pursue your dreams and listen to your heart. Here are some of the key ideas/quotes that either rang true for me or gave me inspiration:

"Your Personal Legend is what you've always wanted to accomplish. When you are young, everything is clear and possible. You are not afraid to dream and to yearn for everything you would like to see happen in your life. But as time passes, a mysterious force begins to convince you that it will be impossible for you to achieve your Personal Legend."

"When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you achieve it."

"I don't live in either my past or my future. I am interested only in the present. If you can concentrate always on the present, you'll be a happy man. Life will be a party for years, a grand festival, because life is the moment we're living right now."

Great book

May 15, 2007 - Mind Games

Dambar gave us some fun puzzles to work out as we passed time in Bamboo. I never remember these things, so I took photos. I know at least one person (Kirsten) who will love puzzling them out. Enjoy!

Remove and replace 3 sticks and have the fish face the opposite direction.

Use the extra 3 sticks to make a total of 4 triangles all the same size.

Remove and replace 2 sticks to get the trash out of the shovel.

Remove and replace 4 sticks to make only 3 boxes of same size as existing boxes.

Remove and replace 2 matches to make 4 boxes of same size as existing boxes.

May 16, 2007 - Carrom Board

We came across this popular Nepali game in Tukuche and had the boys teach us to play. It's very much like pool in that you're trying to get the carroms in the corner pockets. It's quite fun and now I look for it in every town we pass through. We're going to buy carroms in Kathmandu and build our own game board when we get home.

Intense concentration

Assuming the position

May 16, 2007 - Good Vibrations

Have you ever gone somewhere and been able to feel the positive energy vibrating in that place? I have felt that intense energy in one place - Yosemite Valley. No matter how many times I go, I always feel overwhelming joy and well-being when I get into the valley. There is some powerful energy field there. (Yes, I know this sounds really new-agey.)

I have felt it again. Today as we hiked closer to the Annapurna Sanctuary, I felt the good vibrations surrounding this special place. It's an amazing feeling. I spent the entire day with a big smile on my face and a buoyancy in my step as we hiked from Bamboo to Deuralli. We are just 5 hours from reaching Annapurna Base Camp and the Sanctuary and I'm sure that these vibrations will intensify as we get closer.

Feeling happy

Scenery

May 16, 2007 - Fatty Cakes Diary

Before we started this trip, Sarah and I were both closeted sugar fiends. It has been a delight to have a partner in crime as we make our way around the world looking for sweet treats. We are fairly obsessive about our quest for "fatty cakes" and have found plenty of treats along the way the fill our needs. Here is a diary of our fatty cakes consumption in each country:

• Mexico: pancakes, chocolate cake
• New Zealand: muffins, cake, cappuccino, tim tams, cheds
• Australia: muffins, croissants, cappuccino
• Thailand: oreos, sour mentos, fanta, thai iced tea
• Cambodia: oreos
• Vietnam: oreos
• Northern Thailand: oreos, pancakes
• Nepal: snickers, french toast

As you can see, we are keeping ourselves busy and are most certainly not losing any weight along the way. You may guffaw at some of our choices, but you never know what you're going to become addicted to and these are all a damn sight better than those Tootsie Rolls I used to feast on at Genentech.

May 17, 2007 - Annapurna Sanctuary

Against all odds and elements, after 21 days of trekking, we have reached Annapurna Base Camp and now have front row seats in the much revered Annapurna Sanctuary. ABC sits at 4130 meters and provides a 360 degree view of some of the worlds tallest peaks.

It rained all through the night but quit shortly before sunrise. Sarah and I got up around that time and went out to see if the clouds would clear. Around 6am, we had a good view with Annapurna South (7219m) directly in front of us, Annapurna I (8091m) to our right and Annapurna III (7575m), Annapurna IV (7535m) and Machhapuchre (6998m) behind us.

It was really beautiful to see all of this reveal itself from behind the fog as the sun rose burned off all the fog. I sat watching and saying little prayers for people and Sarah did a quick sketch. Within about 15 minutes, it was all veiled in fog again. The views from the Sanctuary are lovely, but definitely elusive. You have to hike for days to get there and are then only allowed a few minutes to see the beauty before nature pulls her curtains again. Both Sarah and I agreed that it was worth our effort.

Annapurna I

Sarah sketches

Reflecting

Flags and mountain

May 17, 2007 - Maybe a Little Competitive Still

I have always been very competitive and frankly, a sore loser. About 7 years ago, Tim intervened and told me I needed to make some changes. This rare rebuke came when we were visiting my family for the holidays and I was playing Sorry with my 6 year old niece. I got seriously angry when I lost a child's game to a 6 year old. Sad.

Since then, I've gotten a bit better, but it still hurts my heart when I lose. I just show it less. Well... my devil reared its ugly head again here in the spiritual center of the planet. We have taken to playing Rummy to pass the long nights. After 3 bad hands in a row, Sarah went out unexpectedly - leaving me with 2 aces. My immediate reaction was to accuse her of holding cards (basically calling her a cheater). Ridiculous.

I apologized right away for being such an idiot and we all laughed at what an ass I am. It seems I still have to work on this one a bit. :)

Friendly competition

May 19, 2007 - Tuna Noodle Casserole

The only way to get protein on the circuit is through eggs and tuna. We've eaten a lot of eggs and tuna. We're pretty tired of eating the same thing over and over. However, we were treated to a little bit of Midwest comfort food in Chhomrung. They had cream of mushroom soup on their menu so we mixed that with fried macaroni and tuna. It was delicious. Tuna noodle casserole was one of my mom's specialties. It was great to get a taste of the good old days so far from home.

May 19, 2007 - Changing Scenery

I had no idea what to expect when we started this trek. We did an appallingly small amount of research (none) before we began and therefore, everything was a surprise. The Annapurna Circuit combined with the Annapurna Sanctuary totals over 200 miles of trekking and immense elevation changes from one day to the next. We pass through so many micro-climates as we went that it felt like we went trekking through many different countries.

We went through green terraced lands, numerous villages, pine forests, desert, dried river beds, raging waters, bamboo forests, rainforest, himalayan peaks and even a glacier. Some days we would walk in sweltering heat (feeling the dahl baht cooking inside us), sometimes we had to pack on layer after layer of clothing just to stay warm, sometimes we had to wear our bandanas as masks because the wind was ferociously blowing dirt and sand in our faces, sometimes we would be so sweaty and moist from humidity that it felt like we were drenched from rain, sometimes we couldn't see more than 20 feet in front of us because the fog was so thick... and sometimes it was just right.

Green terraces

Snow

Mountain views

Desert

May 19, 2007 - Monsoon Season Comes Early

We knew we were cutting it close, but hoped that global warming would be on our side and keep the rains at bay until the end of our trek. But no luck. The rains arrived about four days ago and we've ben drenched ever since. OUr so-called "waterproof" gear is useless under these rains.

Today we hiked the final 15 minutes of stairs to Landruk and we had to walk through an actual waterfall. Water was pouring down the stairs in a large current and there was no stepping around the oncoming water. All one could do was just walk through the river and falls and hopefully not slip on the stone steps underneath.

It was kind of a bummer, but what can you do. I channeled my youthful self that loved to go outside and play in the rain and that made it much more fun. My only regret is that I've gotten that Eurythmics song firmly stuck in my head with no hope of reprieve... "Here comes the rain again, falling on my head like a memory..."

Here comes the rain

Wet girl

All signs point to rain

May 19, 2007 - Ready to be Done

As of today, we have been trekking for 23 days. Tomorrow is our last day and we are both ready to be done. This has been an amazing experience, but we are tired. Our bodies are exhausted. Only rest day on a 24 day trek is not enough. We are ready to stop walking.

It is going to be so wonderful to have all our filthy, mildewy clothes washed and to take off these ever-present backpacks. It's going to be glorious to get a massage and a facial and to eat different types of food (we've already promised ourselves a bottle of wine to celebrate our accomplishment). But most of all, it's going to be so wonderful to email people back home. We've been disconnected for so long now and we miss our friends very much. We plan to call people for the first time since we began our trip 5 months ago.

It's good to disconnect for a while and have time and space to think and meditate. But it's even better to come back and re-establish those cherished connections.

May 20, 2007 - Animal Lovers

Sarah and I are big-time animal lovers. You might know this about us based on our love for our cats. But this love is spread far and wide to many animals. We always greeted the cows and mules and yaks and horses with a namaste. Sometimes they would respond in kind, but more often they were too shy and moved along down the road.

But a special favorite of our on this trip has been the goats. They are absolutely phenomenal creatures. They have sweet little voices and have a lot to say. They run and play with each other and the babies are very into their mothers. But the coolest thing goats do is jump. They are amazing jumpers! They look like little soccer players jumping up and heading the ball. So precious! Sarah swears that she will have a goat one day. I hope she does because I'd love to visit it.

Sarah had a little kid

Mama and babies

They love to be petted

Guarding the bridge

May 20, 2007 - And Then There Were Leeches

Just when you think it can't get any worse, it does. I really must stop thinking that! The rains have brought the leeches. We've had a couple on our shoes the past few days, but today, our final day, was the worst. I think all the leeches heard we were leaving so they wanted to give us a big send-off.

As we walked, they crawled all over our shoes and bit our legs. Sarah only got one bite, but my legs were covered in leech bites. These suckers were smart in that they would latch on, suck the blood, then drop off without me ever knowing it until I looked down and saw the blood smeared on my leg.

Luckily, leeches don't bother me. They are harmless and these are little tiny ones so I felt quite confident that they wouldn't drain me of my life blood or try to take over my body or anything. But still, they are a bit creepy.

May 20, 2007 - Down From the Mountain

Finished at last! Today was our last day of trekking. Sarah and I are definitely ready to be done and I think the boys feel the same way. This has been an amazing experience and I'm so glad that we did it. But I'm also glad it's over. This definitely stretched me past my physical and mental boundaries and it was infinitely interesting to see what came out when faced with these challenges.

I think I've grown in many ways. I now have an understanding of an entire culture that I had never known before. I learned about a religion (Buddhism) that I didn't know anything about. And also, I now understand myself better than I did before. These are all great gifts that I will cherish for a lifetime... but I'm still glad it's over! ;-)

One last look

Finally done

May 23, 2007 - Reconnecting from Kathmandu

It was very difficult to be out of touch with everyone for such a long period of time. It's amazing how dependent we've become on getting and sending emails with our friends. I couldn't wait to get back to civilization and email people and call people. It was great to get so many emails for dear friends and even better to hear some familiar voices. I even got to see live footage of sweet Her. What a joy!

May 24, 2007 - Not Ready for New Experiences

We have to leave tomorrow for India and I have to admit that I am not ready to leave here. I need more time to just sit and relax and let the past month's activities sink in. I'm definitely not ready for any new experiences and I know that India is going to be a bevy of new experiences - most likely hard-earned.

I love it that this trip gives us a little taste of all these different places around the world and my mind has expanded beyond belief with all this knowledge. However, it's really quite wearing to jump around so much. My mind spins with all the new information it receives and is a little afraid of trying to fit even more information in. We still have 7 months after all and there will be so much happening during that time.

I suppose it's human nature to never be satisfied with the way things are. I can't believe I'm complaining about how tired I am on my trip around the world! I'm sure this will dissipate soon enough and I'll be ready once again to experience the hidden treasures that this part of the world has to offer.

May 25, 2007 - Morning, Noon and Night

We were told by two separate travelers that the best way to avoid getting sick in India is to have a shot of alcohol with each meal. They swore by this method and, although it sounds brutal, we gave it a try. (Why couldn't it have been Snickers instead of alcohol??) We picked up some vodka in the duty free shop and set about the plan with a shot in our orange juice at 7am. A bit tough to take, but worth it if it works.

We kept doing our shots, but alas, the plan did not work. Three days later, I came down with the poopers and Sarah shortly after me. Oh well, it was worth a try. At least now we can stop drinking vodka morning, noon and night.

Good medicine?

May 25, 2007 - Good Luck So Far

We were advised by other travelers to stay out of the big cities as much as possible. So we hoped that we would be able to get train tickets from Delhi to Varanasi the same day we flew in. We knew it would be a long-shot, but worth a try. Luck was in our favor today. We got seats in 2nd class AC sleeper. We made it over to the train station with ease and were even able to find baggage storage without much problem. We stored all our climbing gear and headed out for some lunch. We met some friendly people in the restaurant and made it back to the train station without problem.

On the train, a lovely family was next to us and they took us under their wing. They fed us all night long and talked to us about their culture and religion. They were really quite wonderful. When we got off the train, we lucked out with getting a nice taxi driver who helped us wind our way through the narrow alley ways to our hotel. He was so good in fact, that we booked him to drive us around tomorrow.

Looks like we're off to a good start here in India.

Delhi train station

Sleeping on the platform

Nice family

May 26, 2007 - Varanasi

Varanasi is located in the northeast part of India. It is famous for bordering the Ganges River and having over 80 ghats where Hindu people from all over the country come to cleanse themselves in the Ganges. Varanasi has been in existence for over 2000 years and claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world. It is definitely one of the most popular cities for Hindu worshipers as it is the city of Shiva, has the Vishwanath Temple and the most holy cremation ghat in the country. We went so we could get a feel for the Hindu religion and people and see some of the holy sights.

The Vishwanath Temple, or Golden Temple, draws Hindu pilgrims from far and wide to worship Shiva under it's 800kg gold dome and tower. Non-hindus are not allowed in the temple, but Sarah and I were able to go back through a side alley with a Hindu man who showed us the amazing structure and the beautiful golden dome.

We went to see a couple of other temples (Durgha Temple and Monkey Temple) and another one that I don't know the name of but apparently Hindus go there to pray to Shiva for fertility and they sometimes rent rooms onsite at the temple to have sex in the hope that they will conceive under the good graces of Shiva.

Our main goal for Varanasi was to go and observe the people and customs. So to do this, we spent some time sitting down at the ghat along the Ganges. Ghat means "river's edge" and is a place for the Hindus to enter into the river for cleansing and worship. Dasaswamedh Ghat is the busiest ghat and a good place to sit and watch the people. We went one evening and were lucky enough to be there for a Ganga Ceremony. People (and cows) sat on the stone stairs and listened to readings from the holy texts. We watched a side ceremony where they were ringing bells and lighting fires and chanting and doing all sorts of interesting things. Later in the evening, the indigent people of the city gathered for a free meal. It was really interesting to watch the people and observe their rituals.

Manikarnika Ghat is the main burning ghat and the holiest place a Hindu can be cremated. We watched as dead bodies were brought out in bamboo stretchers, covered in flowers. The body is dipped into the Ganges for a final cleanse and then the family purchases enough wood to burn the body. Someone from the family lights a torch from the eternal flame in the nearby temple and then lights the body on fire. At that point, the family leaves with the the knowledge that their loved-one has left their earthly body and gone to a better place. After the body is cremated, the owner of the ghat (who sits on a boat watching the entire day) searches the body for any gold or jewels. Afterwards, the ashes are scattered into the Ganges.

Dasaswamedh ghat

Hindu ceremony

Cows get the best seats

Hindu temple

May 26, 2007 - Um, ew

The Ganges River is hugely significant to the Hindu people. They call the river "Great Mother" and believe that taking a dip in the river will wash away their sins and being buried in the river will stop the cycle of having to be reborn on this earth. Hindus from all over India and the world make pilgramages to Varanasi to pay tribute to the Ganges.

All of that is good and well, however, what's not so good and well is the fact that all of Varanasi's sewers empty directly into the Ganges. In addition, they sink corpses (of people and animals who cannot be cremated) in the river. If you take a boat tour down the river, you will see many dead bodies floating around on the surface. Imagine what it's like underneath.

According to the guidebook, samples from the Ganges River show that the water has 1.5 million faecal coliform bacteria per 100mL of water. In water that is safe for bathing, this figure should be less than 500. The water is literally septic - no oxygen exists and waterborn diseases run rampant.

It is unbelievable to me that people willingly get in such filthy, disgusting water. I suppose the only possible reason someone would do it is in the name of religion and the possibility of eternal salvation. Don't get me started on that.

In the water

Ghats along the Ganges

Over 60,000 Hindu worshipers per day

May 26, 2007 - Suckered In

In India, every tuk tuk/taxi/rickshaw driver you meet will try to take you to a guesthouse or store they are affiliated with so they can get a kickback from the establishment. We've gotten wise to this routine from being in Southeast Asia so we're not usually easy targets for these guys. But Varanasi was an exception.

Our driver, Babu, took us on a city tour and the last stop of the day was to his friend's silk shop. I tried to plead illness (not untrue), but Sarah thought it would be rude not to go. So we went along with the intention of humoring them so we could continue to get rides from Babu around the city.

Babu's friend proceeded to roll out about 100 gorgeous handmade silk bedspreads (he even showed us the weavers at work). Overcome by the heat, or perhaps by the chai and biscuits they served us, we bought 2 bedspreads for way too much money. We didn't even really try to bargain with him. I don't know what kind of spell we were under. This is so unlike us. But whatever, I'm sure we've gotten a bargain somewhere else that will make up for this splurge. The bedspreads really are gorgeous.

Writing up the bill

Beautiful bedspreads

May 28, 2007 - Heed the warnings

Every single Indian person that we've come into contact with has warned us against their compatriots. Some whisper it, some say it loudly while pointing at suspicious touts. Always the same message - don't talk to anyone, don't trust anyone, they will rob you and cheat you. Be very careful, be aware.

I find it interesting that they give blanket warnings against their own people. While 95% of the time it has been true and we've come into contact with some horrible people, it still seems odd that they would assume the worst from other Indians.

An exception to the warnings

May 29, 2007 - Delirium on the Night Train

We took the night train from Varanasi to Agra and were absolutely thrilled when two Aussies we met at our hotel ended up in the shared bunk beside us. There is no curtain that separates these two sets of bunks and were quite worried that 2 creepy Indian guys would be next to us, staring at us all night long. But instead, we got these two charming travelers and spent the evening trading stories with them.

Around 1am I woke up feeling pretty strange. I had taken 3 anti-diarrhea pills during the day so that I wouldn't have to suffer through having the poopers on the train (which would be a truly miserable experience in more ways than I'll ever tell you). I think I did the wrong thing by plugging the poopers up inside me because I was feverish and heading straight for delirious at break-neck speed.

I crawled down from the top bunk and woke Sarah up because I knew I needed help. We ran for the toilet and the most miserable 30 minutes I can remember ensued. I felt so horrific. I was sweating buckets, my skin was cool and drenched, my mouth was dry, my lips were actually white and I had no color in my face. What's worse is that my mind was not functioning. I was really scared. I felt like I was going to die. I had no idea what it was or how to stop it.

Sarah was a hero as always. She knelt down with me on that filthy bathroom floor and hugged me while I wept with pain and confusion. She even cleaned the toilet off in case I needed to use it. Miraculously, within about 30 minutes, the pain had lessened and I had stopped sweating profusely. We walked back to the bunks and I was able to sleep for a good bit of the night.

Thank god I have such an amazing friend who's willing and able to take care of me so well. I just hope and pray that this doesn't ever happen again. I don't think I, or Sarah, could handle a repeat performance.

May 30, 2007 - Red Fort

I have no idea why we went to look at this fort when I was so sick. It must have been because we had tickets the next night to leave Agra and we wanted to see both the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal while we were here. We did end up changing our tickets when Sarah got sick too. But no matter, I lived to tell the tale.

The Red Fort was constructed by Emperor Akbar in the late 1500s. What's interesting about this building is that Shah Jahan (who had the Taj Mahal built) was imprisoned here by his son because his son thought he was spending too much money building palaces. The old man had to look out at the Taj Mahal every day for the rest of his life, unable to visit his wife's burial site. A bit cruel.

Red Fort from outside

Great light and color

Red sandstone walls

May 30, 2007 - Just Creepy

I don't want to stereotype an entire race of people, but in our experience so far, Indian men are just really creepy. There's the constant staring, which I have been fine with because I understand that we look different and they don't see non-Indian people all the time. I just tell myself that they think I'm some famous actress and can't help but gawk and stare and follow us down the road.

It's more than that. They stand too close and they harass you constantly to get you to buy something or utilize their services. They pretend that talking about a price for a service is impolite but then they harass you about not paying them enough. They seem to think that women are dumb and can't take in information so they cut you off when you express your wishes or thoughts and if you disagree with what they say, they simply repeat it over and over again until you can understand their complex thoughts. It's really enough to piss me off.

On the train, they walk by your compartment a hundred times and try to look in through the curtains. They have no shame. They will stand there and look at you and violate your privacy, despite your repeated requests for them to leave you alone. They make inappropriate comments about sex too. I've never had so many men talk to me about sex. It's really too much. These guys are creepy and I wish we didn't have to deal with them on such a constant basis. I could take a little bit from time to time, but really, this is ridiculous.

No offense to my Indian friends at home who I adore and who never creep me out ;-)

May 31, 2007 - Memory Keeper's Daughter

Amy brought this book to Thailand and passed it along after she was finished. It was entertaining to read such an intriguing story and it covered some interesting emotions and comments on personal relationships.

The story is about a man who delivers his own twins. When he sees that one baby is born with Down Syndrome, he gives her away and tell his wife that the baby died. The book goes on to follow the lives of the doctor and his wife and child as well as the little girl he gave away. It is an interesting study on cause and effect and the impossibility of controlling your life by eliminating unwanted things and making decisions for other people.

It also shows the intricate weaving of a family and the incongruous states of knowing each other like the back of your hand and not actually knowing each other at all. The things we keep hidden from each other can never be guessed at.

Another good one